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Veggies and Herbs For New Gardners

For gardeners, poring over the pages of a seed catalog can be a feast for the eyes; heirloom tomatoes, basil, the seed varieties available to home gardeners rival any farmers market. Similarly, going to a nursery and seeing row upon row of baby tomato, lettuce and kale plants can make it hard to decide where to start. What’s a backyard food grower to do?


By growing a small selection of carefully chosen crops, you will give yourself the best opportunity for success. If you’re new to gardening, it’s better to grow just five types of vegetables rather than 15. Over time, you’ll learn which crops and varieties work best for your microclimate, taste and lifestyle.


Here are some of the best vegetables and herbs for gardeners of all types, including beginners. In addition to being easy to grow and productive, many of these crops are well-suited to growing in small spaces.


Start with favorite vegetables that you regularly buy from the grocery store. If you’re a big fan of kale salads, be sure to plant kale. Radishes are very easy to grow and look gorgeous, but if you’re not a fan of eating them, don’t grow them.


Tender greens like spinach thrive in cool environments. To find vegetables that suit your growing region, look for local seed companies, check out what’s being grown in farmers markets and ask neighbors what they’re growing. Find out your area’s average first and last frost dates; these will provide an essential guideline for when to plant seeds.


Your garden space will also inform what you can grow. If your space is small, choose plants with a small footprint. Zucchini can grow in a large container, but their huge, sprawling leaves may take up the better part of a balcony garden.


Snap Peas


Few things in life rival the flavor of a fresh snap pea right off the vine. Because the sugars in this crop degrade quickly, snap peas truly taste better when grown at home. With their vertical growth, peas don’t take up much room — just be sure to set up a trellis and train them rigorously, as the vines can get unruly. Peas are a cool-season crop and are planted directly into the soil as seeds in late winter or early spring in most areas.


Tip: 

Use a pea inoculant (a powder that acts like a probiotic for peas and beans) at the time of planting to ensure success. Look for varieties that are resistant to pea enation mosaic virus and powdery mildew.


When to Plant: 

Sow seeds about four to six weeks before the average last frost date in spring. In mild-winter climates, peas can also be planted in the fall; sow seeds two to three months before the first expected frost date.


Light Requirement: 

Full sun to partial shade; provide afternoon shade in hot climates.


Radishes


Cheery, colorful radishes are some of the first vegetables gardeners can harvest in the spring. This attractive cool-season plant grows quickly and takes up little room, making it an ideal choice for small-space gardeners. The leaves are also edible and can make a good substitute for cooked spinach.


When to Plant: 

Sow seeds two to three weeks before the average last frost date in spring, and in late summer four to six weeks before the average first fall frost. Continue sowing seeds every two weeks in both spring and fall.


Light Requirement: 

Full sun to partial shade


Mint


Want your own supply of peppermint tea? It’s as easy as growing a peppermint plant. This perennial herb grows so vigorously that it should always be planted in containers — otherwise, it may take over your entire garden. Keep your mint tidy with regular trimming, or allow it to go to flower and attract tons of bees. This hard-to-kill plant is a great choice for apartment gardeners.


When to Plant: 

Purchase seedlings from a garden supply store, or ask a friend to dig up a section of his or her plant. Plant seedlings in early spring, or in the fall in warm-winter climates.


Light Requirement: 

Full sun to partial shade


Chives


Snipped chives taste delicious on eggs, pasta — just about everything. In grocery stores, they can be difficult to find and expensive, but in gardens, they’re incredibly easy to grow. This perennial herb has a long harvest season and will come back year after year if you plant it in nice rich soil. Try growing them in a large pot right outside your kitchen window. Harvest chives by simply giving them a “haircut” with kitchen scissors as needed.


When to Plant: 

Purchase seedlings from a garden supply store, or start seeds indoors eight to ten weeks before the average last frost date. Plant seedlings in the early spring. Chives are perennials and take several years to reach their full size, so harvest lightly until your plants are well-established.


Light Requirement: 

Full sun


Mesclun Mix


The word “mesclun” comes from the Provençal word for “mixture.” In gardening terms, mesclun is a combination of seeds that are planted together to create a ready-made baby salad featuring a variety of colors, flavors and textures. The result is similar to the packaged salad mixes you can find in grocery stores, but far more fresh and exciting. Seed catalogs often have a variety of mesclun mixes to choose from, typically featuring arugula, mustard greens and lettuce.


Tip: 

To achieve success with mescluns, sow seeds thinly (about one seed per square half-inch). Plant some each week and harvest leaves with scissors as soon as they look ready.


When to Plant: 

Plant a little mesclun every one to two weeks from early spring to early summer. In mild-winter climates, plant again from late summer to mid-fall. Water well and protect from hot temperatures.


Light Requirement: 

Full sun to partial shade


Kale


If you’re growing kale in containers, sow seeds similarly to mesclun mixes and harvest the baby greens. In raised beds with rich soil, many varieties will grow more than 6 feet tall. Choose your kale variety according to your climate and season. 


When to Plant: 

Sow seeds in early to midsummer for fall and winter harvest. For a summer harvest, plant seeds in spring two weeks to a month before the last frost date.


Light Requirement: 

Full sun; provide afternoon shade in very hot climates.


Cherry Tomatoes


Tomatoes are one of the most rewarding crops to grow in a home garden. If you’re a new gardener, start with a classic disease-resistant cherry tomato like ‘Sweet Million’. Be sure to build a trellis for the long vines, and plant them in a sunny spot where they can be protected from rain. Cherry tomatoes are an ideal choice for container gardens.


When to Plant: 

Set out starts or nursery plants when the soil is warm and there’s no danger of frost. Start seeds indoors five to eight weeks before your planned planting date.


Light Requirement: 

Full sun


Zucchini


Get ready, because once your zucchini plants start producing, it’ll be hard to keep up with them. Zucchini are famous for producing more food than most people can handle. Check your plants every day or two, and harvest them as soon as they’re a little over a foot long. Just make sure that you have enough space in your garden for this sprawling plant.


When to Plant: 

Sow seeds about two weeks after the last frost date when soil temperatures reach 21 degrees Celsius. You can start seeds indoors about one week before that date.


Light requirement: 

Full sun


By choosing only a few veggies or herbs that you enjoy eating, and that are suited to your growing environment, you’ll set yourself up for a fun and successful gardening experience. Enjoy the process of learning which plants work best for you.

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Winter Napping

This time of year we can always use a little extra rest. Make it easy with these ideas for daytime napping


Winter is a time of hibernation for many animals, and for Mother Nature in general — yet we’re expected to somehow keep up the same pace of life no matter the time of year. Is it any wonder, then, that winter also sees more of us becoming run-down? Let’s gave in to the urge to rest up and get cozy. Here are some ways to tap into the power of napping.


Grant Yourself Permission


If you’re in the habit of pressing on, even when you’re tired, it may help to formally grant yourself permission to take a catnap from time to time. In fact, if you have a pet, it wouldn’t hurt to take some napping tips from your furry friend. Animals are experts at falling asleep at the drop of a hat! Of course, we can’t ignore all our duties, but if you make time for napping a priority, you may find that the opportunities to catch a few extra, blissful moments of rest are surprisingly within reach.


See The Value In Napping


Sometimes knowing we could use more rest is not enough to make us actually prioritize it — that’s when it’s time to appeal to logic. Most of us have at least a sliver of time here and there when we could nap. The key is seeing the value in napping over all the other things you could be doing. Here are some of the benefits.

◦Catch up on sleep

◦Keep your strength up during cold and flu season

◦Reduce stress

◦Feel emotionally nourished

◦Wake up refreshed and ready to tackle your to-do list


Keep Napping Essentials Nearby


You may want extra pillows and certainly a soft throw or two to cover chilly legs. If light bothers you, toss a silky eye mask on top of the pile. And if you tend to be chilly, throw in a hot-water bottle as well. Stowed on a spare chair or in a basket near your favorite napping spot, these comforts will never be far when you feel your eyelids beginning to droop.


Find Some Warmth


A sun-filled window, a place beside a crackling fire and a cozy nook are all excellent spots in which to curl up for a long winter’s nap, no matter the time of day. Feeling warm, snug and safe is key to a relaxing nap. If lying in bed during the day doesn’t feel right, sprawl out on a couch, chaise or window seat instead.


Shut Down Electronics


One thing to avoid when winding down for a nap, or going to bed, is screen time. Doesn’t it seem like an “essential” email always pops up just when you were about to sign off? Don’t give your tech the opportunity to distract you from your delicious nap — move away from the desktop, close the laptop and put your phone away.


Ease Into Relaxation


Sometimes simply lying down for a nap is not enough to drift off. If you know you could use a nap but your body is resisting, here are a few things to try:

  • Sit in a sunny window or another warm spot for five minutes
  • Do a few slow, gentle stretches
  • Sip warm tea
  • Kick off your shoes and cover your legs with a blanket
  • Read a few pages from a complicated novel or a boring nonfiction book


Set A Timer


If you napped the afternoon away when you were meant to meet someone at a certain time, you may not be likely to take another nap anytime soon! If you have time only for a quick nap, set a timer on your phone and put it within earshot, but out of arm’s reach so you can relax, knowing you will get up when you need to.


Rise and Shine


Waking from a daytime nap can be jarring. Make the transition back into your daily activities as smooth and gentle as possible to maximize the benefits of your nap and boost your mood.

  • Sip some fresh water with lemon or hot tea
  • Stand up and stretch
  • Step outside or crack a window and take 10 deep breaths.
  • Grab a pen and jot down anything that sprang to mind while you were resting


Go ahead, don’t feel guilty take a cat nap and get refreshed.

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How To Keep Your Holiday Plants

Whether you receive them as a gift or choose them yourself, living plants have become an essential part of holiday decor. Here’s what to do to enjoy your favorite gift and holiday plants well beyond the season.


Poinsettia


No flower defines the holiday season like the cheerful poinsettia (Euphorbia pulcherrima). It’s known for its bright red “leaves,” which are actually bracts — although, these days you can also find them in shades of white, cream and pink, as well as bicolor versions. It’s also long-lasting. Given the right care, it often will continue to bloom until the beginning of spring. If you’re willing to do a little more work, you can also get it to rebloom for several holiday seasons.


During The Holiday Season 


Ideally, put your plant in a location that gets six to eight hours of bright, direct sunlight. It also can handle darker spots for a few weeks. Keep it out of drafts and cold spots, and place it where it won’t touch cold window glass. Daytime temperatures should be between 18.3 to 26.7 degrees Celsius.


Water thoroughly when the soil is dry to an inch or so below the surface, then allow the container to drain completely. If you can, provide additional humidity; setting it on a pebble tray is ideal. Don’t fertilize while the plant is blooming.


Rule Of Thumb 


Remove the wrapping around the container, cheerful though it may be, or at least poke holes in the bottom to allow water to drain. An exception would be materials that are naturally porous, such as burlap.


Post-Holiday Care 


Give your plant the same care as you did during the holidays until the blooms fade, usually by March. Cut the plant back to about 8 inches high. Cut back on watering at this time as well, allowing the soil to dry completely between waterings. You can keep your plant indoors or move it outside in late spring into early summer once nighttime temperatures have warmed up above 10 degrees Celsius. Put it in a bright spot that gets indirect light in the mornings and partial shade in the afternoons.


Resume regular watering when growth begins again, but be sure the container drains completely and the soil isn’t soggy. Feed with a balanced half-strength fertilizer every two weeks. Pinch back stems to keep the plant bushy. You also may want to repot the plant if it’s crowded. Bring your plant inside in fall, when nighttime temperatures fall to 10 degrees Celsius again.


The Trick To Their Red Colour 


Poinsettias are short-day plants and require an extended daily period of darkness over several weeks to trigger the change of leaf color from green to red. Place the plant in a location that’s completely dark at night for a minimum of 12 to 14 hours and with nighttime temperatures of 12.8 to 15.6 degrees Celsius. If you don’t have such a location or can’t guarantee it will remain completely dark for that long, cover the plant with a box or black plastic bag, taking care that the covering does not touch the leaves. During the day, provide at least six hours of sunlight and temperatures of around 21.1 degrees Celsius. Continue to feed and water regularly. Turn the plant every few days to encourage even growth.


After about 10 weeks to two months (or even longer), you’ll begin to see the color change. Bring the plant inside and continue watering, but discontinue feeding it until the blooming fades.


If you live in a climate where temperatures don’t drop below 10 degrees Celsius, you can plant your poinsettia outdoors. Choose a spot with fertile, well-draining soil that gets bright, indirect morning sun and partial afternoon shade. Follow the same watering and feeding schedule as you would for plants in containers. If your plant does not get the darkness required for the color change on the bracts, they will remain green, but you will eventually have a good-sized perennial shrub that’s ideal for a tropical-style garden.


Amaryllis


The amaryllis (Hippeastrum) is rapidly approaching the poinsettia in overall popularity as a holiday plant. They’re one of the few forced bulbs that can come back year after year, so you can enjoy your amaryllis this holiday season and for years to come.


Forcing It To Bloom


Fill a pot with enough potting mix so the top third of the bulb will be exposed above the soil. Set the bulb in place, and then fill in around it with potting soil to hold it in place. You will probably also want to add a stake to support the flower stalk.


Place your bulb in a spot that gets bright, indirect light with daytime temperatures from 21.1 and 26.7 degrees Celsius. Keep the soil moist but not soggy, watering when the top inch or two of the potting mix is dry. Be careful not to overwater, and let the container drain thoroughly.


Once the flower stalk appears, fertilize every two to three weeks with a half-strength water-soluble fertilizer. Turn the plant every two to four days to keep growth even.


During The Holiday Season


Keep your plant in a spot with bright, indirect light. Continue watering and fertilizing as you have been.


Post-Holiday Care 


Cut off the stalk once the blooms fade, but continue to water regularly. Feed once a month with a balanced fertilizer. Place the plant outdoors in late spring or early summer. Start by putting it in shade or indirect sunlight, then gradually move it to a spot where it will receive full sun for at least six hours daily. Water and fertilize regularly as you have been. You can also place the plant directly in the garden, away from other plants, once the soil temperature reaches 10 degrees Celsius, then dig it up and repot it in late summer.


Stop watering and fertilizing in late summer, around August to September, and let the soil dry out completely. Remove any dead leaves, and bring the plant into a cool, dimly lit spot before your first frost.


To force the plant to rebloom, keep it in this spot for a minimum of six weeks and up to 12 weeks. Cut off any leaves that turn yellow and wither. Then begin the forcing process as outlined above. Don’t repot at this time, but you can replace the top inch or so of soil.


Holiday Cactus


Once known as Christmas cactuses, the term holiday cactus came about because you can have these plants blooming from Thanksgiving to Easter. The true Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera bridgesii) blooms in December, while the more commonly found Thanksgiving cactus (S. truncata) starts blooming earlier. The Easter cactus (Hatiora gaertneri) blooms in spring. Fortunately, they require the same general care. They also make excellent houseplants during the rest of the year and can even go outside during the summer in colder climates.


During The Holiday Season 


Put it in a spot where it gets bright, indirect light — a west-facing window that doesn’t get direct sun is ideal. Water regularly, but allow the container to drain freely and the soil to dry a bit between waterings.


Post-Holiday Care 


Continue the same care while the plant blooms. You can move the plant outdoors in spring and summer if you live in a cold-winter climate or at almost any time in the warmest winter regions. Provide bright indirect light through spring and summer and into fall. Fertilize weekly with about one-quarter-strength fertilizer from spring through summer while the plant is growing,


Holiday cactuses are also considered short-day plants that are said to need a certain amount of darkness to rebloom.


In September into October, you can reduce the amount of water your plant receives and put it in a cool, dry spot, such as an unheated garage, where it will get at least 12 hours of darkness per day for about a month. If you can’t ensure 12 hours of darkness, place a box over it in the evenings to block the light. Be careful that the covering doesn’t touch the leaves or you may damage them. Once the buds set, increase the watering and bring the plant into a more brightly lit area.


These cactuses can also grow outside year-round in Zone 9 and above.


Living Christmas Trees


You can enjoy a living Christmas tree for several years. Choose a slow-growing or dwarf conifer that will do well in your climate zone. You can’t keep it indoors for long, but it can be brought in for brief periods for several years.


During The Holiday Season 


Choose a healthy tree in a 5-gallon, 10-gallon or 15-gallon pot. Because nursery pots aren’t very festive, simply slip it into a larger, more decorative container. Set it in a bright, sunny, somewhat cool spot near a window and away from furnace vents and fireplaces. Water regularly, keeping the soil moist. One trick is to place ice cubes on top of the soil and let them melt.


Trees don’t do well inside for very long. Plan on leaving them inside for five to seven days, with a maximum of 10 days.


Post-Holiday Care 


Move your tree outside to a sheltered location out of wind and sunlight for about a week. Water deeply, saturating the root ball, and lightly hose off or wipe off the needles to remove the dust. Once the tree has adjusted to outdoor temperatures, move it into a location in full sun and water regularly. Repot if it becomes root-bound.


Norfolk pine (Araucaria heterophylla), shown here, is a living tree option that can live indoors permanently. It is often sold as a miniature living Christmas tree at nurseries, home centers, florists and grocery stores but can reach up to 100 feet outdoors. Indoors it grows slowly but will eventually reach about 6 feet tall.


During The Holiday Season 


Set your plant in a bright spot, preferably a south-facing window, out of drafts and where temperatures won’t fall below 35 degrees Fahrenheit (1.7 degrees Celsius). It loves humidity, so set it on a pebble tray. Water when the soil is dry to the touch and let the container drain completely.


Post-Holiday Care 


Continue the same care throughout the rest of the year. Feed weekly with a balanced quarter-strength water-soluble fertilizer in spring and summer; don’t feed in fall and winter. Turn regularly for even growth. If the plant begins to get leggy, provide more light and cut back on fertilizer.

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Savour The Season Of Warmth And Light

Living with winter is about savoring the warm and cozy aspects of the season. Candles, fairy lights and a roaring fire can do wonders to boost light on short, dark days and (even more important) bolster the spirits. So pour yourself a mug of hot cocoa and get cozy around the fire. Here are some ideas for boosting light, lifting your spirits and creating a magical ambience around the house.


Keep Your Windows Clean


You may be surprised at how much more light comes in through crystal-clear windows. Even if it’s too cold out to get to the exterior side of the windows, cleaning even inside can boost light. And while there’s something to be said for the insulating effects of heavy window treatments, they do nothing when it comes to letting in maximum light on dim winter days — so open the blinds and pull open those drapes!


Line Your Hall With Lanterns


If you have a long hall, why not line it with a row of sturdy lanterns or hurricanes filled with pillar or LED candles?


This would make walking from one room to the next a far more romantic experience.


Have Your Fireplace Ready And Waiting


If you have a working fireplace or wood stove, stock up and get ready with everything you need to light a fire at a moment’s notice.


Chop and stack wood, prepare kindling and get your tools in order. And while you’re at it, don’t forget to have your chimney professionally cleaned. 


Knowing everything is ready to go may nudge you into having a cozy fire more often.


Use String Lights In The Bedroom


Whether you choose plain white twinkle lights or mini paper lanterns on a string, fairy lights bring a magical touch to the winter bedroom.


Drape them from the headboard, hang them vertically from a curtain rod or drape them across the top of the closet. Before bed put out all lights but the twinkle lights and candle, and revel in the ambience.


Enhance The Kitchen With Candles


Kitchen lighting can be a bit sterile — it gets the job done but doesn’t add anything to the mood. Supplement the overheads with a smattering of tea lights or votives on the counters, and I think you’ll find even chopping vegetables or washing up to be a more pleasant undertaking.


As always, keep an eye on burning candles, and never leave them unattended.


Light Candles At Breakfast


Winter mornings can be so dark. Why reserve candles for the dinner table only, when you can benefit from them at all times of day? I find candles have an especially calming effect on children; they’re great for soothing frazzled nerves before a busy school day.


Put Candles Around The Tub


If you don’t normally soak in the tub, make an exception for winter.


Bring in a few candles and place them around the tub, turn down the lights and relax. Repeat at least once a week.


Keep Your Holiday Decorating Simple


I’m not one for going overboard on holiday decor, but a few simple pieces can bring a welcome festive air to the home.


When All Else Fails, Treat Yourself To Color


I am a firm believer in the power of color to uplift the spirits. So if all of the tea lights, fairy lights and cozy nights around the fire aren’t helping you get your groove back, allow me to suggest splurging on something bright and bold instead.

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It’s winter’s cruellest COVID-19 twist for those with glasses, the endless fogging up of them. Mask-wearing and colder weather will make the fogging up even worse.

Here are some solutions to the problem.


WHAT CAUSES IT?


Your warm breath.

When you have a mask on, your breath can only go out the side or straight up behind your glasses. Hot, humid air on cold glasses causes it to fog.


It’s even worse in the winter, when your glasses are extra chilly, leading to even more steam and fog.


QUICK FIXES


The easiest solution is to seal down your mask around your nose or cheeks. Use surgical tape or another bandage that won’t irritate the skin.


You can also opt for a mask that has a wire across the nose, so you can tighten the upper edge, moulding it to your face a bit more, meaning less air can escape. 


While these options work well if you’re keeping your mask on all day, they aren’t the best if it’s coming off and on.


LONG-TERM SOLUTIONS 


If you’re looking to kick the problem for good, you can invest in a pair of lenses with an anti-fog coating.


But if you’re not ready for a whole new pair of glasses, you can purchase anti-fog sprays and wipes that do the trick.


You wipe them in the morning, and they last for about 24 hours. So it’s a more inexpensive and convenient option.


You should also make sure your glasses are fitted properly and get them adjusted so they sit better on your nose or can go on top of your mask.


Of course, you could also ditch the glasses altogether and switch to contact lenses.


SKIP THE MYTHS


Heard that cleaning your glasses with soap or shaving cream will do the trick? Think again.


Do not put anything on your glasses that is not intended to go on them. It can eat away at the coatings, and your glasses could be ruined.


PREPARE FOR A LONG WINTER


We’ve yet to hit the coldest days, so the issue of glasses fog will likely get worse as the temperatures fall.

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