If you’re considering working with a landscape designer, finding the right fit — and avoiding surprises midway through the project — is largely about knowing which questions to ask upfront and being familiar with the range of services these professionals provide.

First, Get Your Ducks In A Row

Before reaching out to a professional, write a wish list for your garden remodel, establish your priorities and budget, and decide which parts of the process you’d like to hire a pro for help. With this on paper, you’ll have a clear sense of what you’re looking for in a designer before you begin to contact professionals.

Questions to Ask

What Services Do You Offer? 

First and foremost, determine what services a landscape designer offers to see if he or she is the right person for your project. The best question a client can ask is: ‘Are you experienced with the scope of work we want, and can you design and manage it?’

Generally speaking, landscape designers fall into one of three categories, depending on the services they offer:

Design Only

Some designers specialize only in the design process. This typically includes a site analysis and discussion of a client’s needs, a preliminary design, revisions based on your feedback, and a final detailed master plan for your garden. This detailed planting plan and construction document is then handed over to you (or a landscape contractor of your choosing) to take it from there.

Design-Build

Others offer the design service described above, as well as overseeing plant purchase and all installation. Contractors are needed for permitting and hardscape installation — sometimes the landscape designer is also a registered contractor, and other times they have landscape contractors on their team or ones to recommend and oversee.

Full service — Design-Build and Maintenance Program

For the highest-touch service, some landscape designers will offer all the above, plus oversee ongoing maintenance of the garden.

Can I See Examples of Your Past Work? 

Consider the style of the designer in relation to the garden you want. If you want a modern city garden, have they designed any before? Or if you are looking for a cottage-stye garden, do they have the plant knowledge to deliver?”

Alternatively, if a designer’s portfolio doesn’t include the particular style you’re looking for, check out his or her credentials for evidence of the training to make the vision of your garden a reality. Degrees from accredited landscape design colleges and memberships in professional organizations are both good indicators.

Do You Offer Garden Consultations? 

Some landscape designers will offer one- to two-hour garden consultations. During this meeting, a designer will typically come over to your property, join you for a walk around the garden, listen to what you’d like to accomplish with your remodel and begin to bounce some ideas around for the design.

This is a great opportunity for you to determine whether you have a fit with the designer, and for the designer to see if he or she fits with you as a client. It is important for you to determine what role you want to play. Are you interested in a collaboration, [want to] defer completely to the designer or have a clear idea for your garden and just want someone to implement it?

Don’t expect an initial consult to be free of charge — it is, after all, one or two hours of a professional’s time — though some designers will put the consult fee toward the cost of the design if you end up hiring them.

What Ideas Do You Have For Our Garden? 

After you’ve shared your wish list and budget with the designer, and the designer has had a chance to view your property, ask what vision the designer has for your landscape. Designers have different mediums of presenting their ideas for your landscape, ranging from a collage-style mood board with inspiration images for plants and hardscape materials to a two-dimensional, to-scale drawing created with a CAD program or by hand.

This is the time to speak up about what you like and dislike in the design or if you see anything that’s missing from your wish list — for example, more space for tool storage, room to grow vegetables or an area with shade. Following this meeting, a designer will draw up a revised design drawing based on your feedback.

What Is Your Process? 

A designer’s process depends on the services he or she offers. Get to know the process — and whether you or the designer is responsible for overseeing each step — from the beginning so that you’ll know what to expect once the project is underway. If you’re hiring a designer who specializes in design only, ask yourself whether you have the time or experience necessary to oversee the project installation or if the designer has contractors to recommend.

What Is The Estimated Cost? 

Clear communication regarding the estimated cost of the project and your budget is essential. Ask your designer for a range of cost for both the design and the installation. Most installation estimates are drawn up by a contractor based on the cost per square foot of installing areas of hardscape outlined on the plan for the yard.

Another key question to ask your designer: “How are changes in scope handled during the design and installation process?” Given that unanticipated design changes often come up midproject, it’s important to be clear on whether a designer will charge additional fees for the time it takes to change the design plan or installation.

As a responsible client, you also need to be honest with a landscape designer regarding your budget for the project. Knowing a budget beforehand is crucial, it doesn’t mean that a designer needs to spend the budget but dictates what [he or she] can realistically design for. If a look you like is over your budget, designers often have creative ways to stretch your budget and give you the best garden for your space.

Are There Any Ways To Reduce Cost? 

Pathways, patios, retaining walls and decks are generally more expensive than planted garden areas, so the more hardscape there is in the design, the more it’s likely going to cost to install. Plus, the materials used for hardscape can vary widely for both the product and the installation.

It’s best to have a conversation with a designer when you are discussing the initial plan about ways to reduce the cost of the landscape to stay on budget. The designer will have ideas about where you can save money without compromising style, and what elements are worth a splurge.

How Long Will Installation Take? 

The time it takes to design and install a landscape depends on a number of factors: size and scope of the project, availability of contractors and other installation specialists, ordering and delivery times for materials and plants, dry weather for laying hardscape, and unexpected setbacks during installation. Instead of asking a landscape designer to have the installation done by a certain date, ask for an estimated range for the project to be completed.

As eager as you may be to enjoy your new landscape, keep in mind that skilled installation of hardscape and careful planting takes time. While landscaping on TV is inspirational and great entertainment, high-quality work takes time to install.

When Will The Garden Grow In? 

The time it takes for a garden to grow in depends on the scope of the design, what types of plants are proposed and how mature the plants are when they’re planted. A smaller area with ornamental grasses and perennials can grow in within a single season, but larger and more complex designs with trees and large shrubs can take years to reach maturity. Ask your designer which plants make sense to splurge for semimature specimens (like focal-point trees or shrubs needed for screening) and which plants can be purchased small and fill in quickly (like most ground covers, vegetables and ornamental grasses).

How Much Maintenance Will It Take To Keep The Garden Looking Good? 

Different styles of gardens and plants require very different levels of care. Be upfront with your landscape designer about how much maintenance you are willing to commit — either your own time or that of a hired gardener — going forward. Once you’ve invested in hiring a landscape designer and installing a garden, you’ll want to keep your landscape alive and flourishing for years to come. Ask your landscape designer if he or she has recommended maintenance gardeners or specialists to take care of the garden going forward.

Overwatering to planting too tightly, are some of the most common gardening faux pas which are born from the best intentions; however, these mistakes can lead to plant stress or its demise. If you are like me you maybe making these common gardening mistakes.

Wrong Plant, Wrong Place

Solution: Choose plants suited to your climate (check plant tag and hardiness zone); plant them in the right sun exposure and soil type.

If you plant a shade-loving fern in the hot sun, there’s just no way it will thrive. The same goes for putting a sun-loving plant in dark shade or planting a dry-climate shrub in an area with heavy rainfall. While this may seem obvious, planting the wrong plant in the wrong place is one of the most common gardening miscalculations. If you make this mistake the plant will show signs of distress, such as yellowing or burnt leaves or little growth.

Choosing the right plant is important but can be challenging for beginer gardeners to get right.

A good place to start is to look up your climate zone. Look at the sun and shade pattern of the area you would like to plant as well as the soil type and moisture level. Cross-check with plant tags at your local nursery. A well-chosen plant, whether native or exotic, suited to your climate and site will need little care to thrive. A landscape designer can help choose plants that will grow well in your climate and garden. Use the expertise of your local nursery.

Forgetting About Soil Health

Solution: Enrich soil with compost before planting, and adopt practices that build healthy soil long term.

While we only see what happens aboveground, it’s what’s below the surface that feeds your plants.  Spend some time and effort into creating a rich, well-drained soil before putting any plants in the ground.

Do a basic soil test before planting to check soil pH and for the presence (or lack thereof) of essential plant nutrients and minerals. Then enrich the soil with high-quality compost and organic fertilizers to address any nutrient deficiencies.

To build healthy soil long term, avoid practices that strip the soil’s top layer and kills the beneficial organisms that help plants grow. Leave leaves below shrubs and trees or use high-quality mulch to keep soil protected. Avoid chemical-based fertilizers and pesticides that, if used incorrectly, can kill soil organisms.

Overwatering

Solution: Water according to plant needs. Allow soil to dry out between waterings.

Most plants don’t like sitting in water-logged soil, and overwatering, particularly if soil does not drain freely, can lead to root rot and plant death.

Overwatering is the most common mistakes gardeners make: too-frequent watering leads to lazy root growth. Overwatering makes plants too dependent on water and doesn’t allow them to establish deep roots. There is one exception to this rule: new plantings do need frequent consisten watering.

Check on plants regularly and give water when plants show signs of needing it.

Underwatering

Solution: Monitor plants’ water needs. Water young plants frequently; trees deeply.

Equally, little to no watering is a common problem. Signs of underwatering include wilting leaves, drooping branches and dry soil. Seedlings and young plants that have yet to establish root systems are the most vulnerable to drying out; water them often.

Large shrubs and trees require a good soaking when it is hot or windy. Set a hose on very low dribble and move it around the drip line of a tree for up to an hour.

Neglecting Weeds

Solution: Weed regularly, use mulch and choose plants that cover soil.

Weeding is always on a gardener’s to-do list, and it’s a rookie mistake to fall too far behind — particularly if you’ve recently planted a garden. Be vigilant in pulling weeds, especially when your plants are young, as weeds compete for both water and nutrients in the soil.

Weed by hand instead of using herbicides that can damage surrounding plants and soil microorganisms. Decrease weed spikes by covering bare areas of soil with bark mulch or choosing plants that fill in to form mats, which will naturally suppress weed growth.

Planting Too Closely

Solution: Space plants according to plant tags; estimate for three to five years’ growth for larger plants.

Overplanting and plants too close together is a common issue. Plant larger anchor plants for the garden with three to five years growth in mind (checking the plant tag for mature size and working backward to determine spacing) so the plants get correct light exposure and air circulation.

Overplanting and planting too close together can lead to plant diseases, uneven growth and the need to potentially pull out overgrown plants a year after planting.

Planting Too Far Apart

Solution: Space plants according to plant tags; avoid big empty spaces between larger plants, fill in with perennials and ground cover plants.

Planting plants too far apart raises different issues than planting too tightly. Plant plants so they grow next to each other like in nature. This suppresses weeds and keeps the soil cool. In short, plant close enough that there are not huge empty spaces. Or, fill in around large plants with perennials and low-growing ground covers.

Overpruning Shrubs

Solution: Start with the right size plant for your space; then, prune gently.

Overpruning by shearing the top and sides of a shrub can weaken the plant overall and make it more vulnerable to disease. It also leads to a dead, twiggy center, which can be difficult to rectify. Instead, prune gently and selectively, opening some areas to facilitate air flow.

Most overpruning stems from starting with a wrong-size shrub for its placement and use in the garden (think: wrong plant, wrong place). If you’d like a low-growing border hedge, for example, choose a dwarf shrub that will naturally stay small and you’ll run into fewer challenges than if you try to force a shrub that wants to be 8 feet tall to stay lower than 2 feet.

Mowing Lawns Too Short in Summer

Solution: Raise lawn mower blades to 3 inches in warm seasons; skip mowing during heat waves.

Mowing too short in the summer months and scalping the lawn to dirt is a misjudgment. Mowing when it’s too hot or dry and mowing too short are the most common problems. Allow the lawn to grow longer between mowings, skip mowing when it’s hot and dry and avoiding cropping too short can boost lawn health. Lawn mower blades should be raised to 3 inches high during the warm season.

Making Mulch Volcanoes

Solution: Keep a mulch-free ring (think moat, not volcano) around the trunks of trees and mature shrubs.

While mulch can be helpful at keeping weeds at bay in bare areas, it should not be piled up around tree trunks to form what some people call a mulch volcano.

When the mulch gets wet, it can lead to decay in the bark, which then exposes the plant to diseases. Instead, keep mulch pulled back from the trunks of trees, shrubs and woody perennials, avoiding contact between mulch and bark.

Reaching for Pest Sprays Too Quickly

Solution: Allow beneficial insects to arrive; use sprays as a last resort.

Seeing a cluster of aphids on your favorite rose may have you diving for the insecticide spray. But intervening too quickly doesn’t allow time for beneficial insects to arrive and intervene. Ladybugs, for example, make short work of aphids.

Instead of relying on pesticides, try to establish strong, healthy plants, that can withstand a nibble, and grow companion plants that attract bees, butterflies and other beneficial insects.

If you do want to use pesticides, always follow the instructions on the box and use protective gear.

Overfertilizing

Solution: Follow instructions on the box; stick to organics; prioritize soil health.

It’s natural to think that if giving some fertilizer can help plants grow, giving more will make them thrive. This isn’t the case with synthetic-based fertilizers. Overdoing it can have harmful effects, such as giving chemical “burns” to plant roots or leaves, killing soil microorganisms and causing spikes in plant diseases.

Enhance planting beds with compost and organic fertilizers before planting and you’ll have little need for fertilizing.

For lawns, focus on improving soil quality. If you want to use fertilizers, use organic.

Leaving Trees Staked Too Long

Solution: Remove tree stakes after one or two years.

Some trees are planted with stakes to help them grow straight. While stakes can be helpful for the first few years, after that point, it is unnecessary at best and potentially detrimental to the tree at worst. Stakes are really only necessary for trees growing in exposed, windy sites.

When you make the decision to sell your home, it can be tricky to know which changes will make your home sell more quickly or boost the sale price — and which would be a waste of time and resources. Each property is different; here are some key questions to ask yourself before making any changes to prep your home for sale.

General Questions

These questions will help you take the temperature of the real estate market in your area and assess the competition.

How Hot or Cold Is Your Market?

Are homes being snapped up after the first showings, or are they languishing on the market for months? Are homes being sold at or near the asking price, or for much lower? Are showings bustling with people, or are few looking? Get a feel for the market in your area by calling me and checking local listings. If it’s a seller’s market, you may be able to get away with doing fewer repairs and modifications before selling, and still have good results — in a buyer’s market, expect to do more work to make a positive impression on buyers.

How Fast Are You Looking To Sell? 

If you need to sell your home immediately — say, because you have already committed to buying another home or need to move because of work — it is in your best interest to do everything in your power to ensure a quick sale at the highest price possible. If you have more flexibility, and you feel uncomfortable making too many pricey changes to your home before selling, it may make more sense to focus on cleaning, decluttering and making small cosmetic changes, like painting — particularly if the market is hot and favors the seller. If you aren’t getting the offers you would like, you can always decide to spring for a few bigger changes later and relist your home.

What Is The Condition of Comparable Homes? 

It can be quite helpful to know a little about the homes that buyers in your area are looking at. Examine photos of homes for sale in your area or even attend a few showings, and make a mental note of how the other homes compare to yours. Are the kitchens updated? Are the floors in good shape? If all of the other homes you see have a certain feature, for instance, an updated kitchen, that yours lacks, consider making that a priority. You don’t need to make your home exactly like all the other homes on the market; just make sure there isn’t a single factor that could give your home a disadvantage.

To Fix or Not to Fix: Which Repairs Are Worth It

The next questions will help you assess whether or not to make a specific repair or change before selling your home.

Does The Item Give The Impression The Property Has Not Been Well Cared For?

Leaky faucets, cracked tiles, an overgrown lawn, broken appliances or anything else that doesn’t work as it should can immediately turn off buyers. At a first showing, people often zip through quite quickly, and if they notice one or two things that send up red flags, they may not give your home another chance.

Can You Find a Less Expensive Fix? 

Let’s say you scoped out the comparable homes on the market in your neighborhood, and they all have updated kitchens but yours hasn’t been touched for some time. Rather than spend big on a full kitchen remodel, why not give your kitchen a less costly refresh? For instance, you could paint the cabinets, swap out cabinet hardware, change the light fixtures and upgrade the appliances to something current and functional but not top-of-the-line. You will put some money into it but not nearly as much as with a full remodel — well worth it if it gets your home in the running in a competitive market.

How Much Will You Realistically Need to Lower The Price If You Don’t Fix It? 

If you have a lot of costly repairs to tackle to get your home ready to sell, you may be considering selling it as is. But keep in mind that buyers looking for a fixer-upper will also be looking to discount the selling price for the repairs plus the hassle. In other words, you won’t be able to simply estimate how much the repairs will cost and deduct that from the selling price; you’ll need to deduct even more to make it worth the buyer’s time and effort. Discuss this with me and look into other fixer-uppers for sale in your area to come up with an appropriate selling price.

Is It One of The First Things Potential Buyers Will See? 

First impressions are key, and that is never more true than in the real estate business. If you have a repair you are unsure about tackling, use this as a litmus test: Is it something the buyer will see as he or she approaches your house and walks through the front door? If so, fix it.

Could It Be a Deal Breaker? 

Some home repairs, like a new roof, are just so major that they will scare off all but the most determined buyers. If the market in your area is hot and you have ample time, there’s no harm in trying to sell without making the big repair, as long as you are willing to price it accordingly. If it’s a buyer’s market but you don’t have time to make the repair before listing, you could offer to pay for it as part of the sales agreement — otherwise it’s probably best to make the change first and then put your home on the market.

Deer ticks can be vectors for Lyme Disease. The great outdoors is a refuge. Getting outside for some exercise is one of the few activities still permitted amid the current provincial shut downs. But as the warmer temperatures return, so does the hazard posed by ticks. Ticks are out already.There are a lot of people finding ticks on themselves and their pets as they're out and enjoying the trails.

Ticks can be anywhere, including backyards. Usually, they hang out on top of long grass or in the bushes, and as people or animals walk by they jump onto them and bite — often without the victim even knowing it.

Therefore, It's really important that when you come back in, you just do a full body check to make sure you or your pets don't have any ticks on them. Ticks can spread disease through their bites. One tick in particular, the blacklegged or deer tick, spreads Borrelia burgdorferi, the bacteria that causes Lyme disease.

The tell-tale sign is a bullseye-shaped rash. Symptoms of Lyme disease, whick usually appear between 3 to 30 days after a bite, include fever, chills, fatigue and muscle pain. Lyme disease can potentially harm systems the heart, nerves and liver. Symptoms from untreated Lyme disease can last years and include recurring arthritis and neurological problems, numbness, paralysis and, in very rare cases, death.

Most tick that carry Lyme disease in BC are found in southwestern BC, including Vancouver Island, the Gulf Islands, the Sunshine Coast, Greater Vancouver and the Fraser Valley.

Only about 1% of ticks carry the bacteria that causes Lyme disease. They can be found year-round but they are most likely to bite from March to June.

To protect yourself from ticks: walk on cleared trails, wear light coloured clothing so you can see them, tuck your pants into your socks or boots, check for ticks once you return home. If you find a tick, remove it immediately, check children, pets and outdoor gear, put clothing in a hot dryer for 10 minutes to kill any possible ticks.

When removing a tick make sure you remove all its parts. If it hasn’t burrowed completely you can remove it yourself. If it has buried itself deep into your skin, it’s a good idea to get it removed by a doctor. 

You can get a tick tested for Lyme disease, but it will cost you money unless it is submitted by a physician. 

Enjoy our beautiful trails, but when you are out there stay out of high grass and keep your pets out of it too. 

Gates can be a stylish entry to your home and garden. As such, they should be treated as design features in their own right. A gate is somewhat mysterious, making you wonder what’s beyond it. Mixing materials, creating a one-of-a-kind design or incorporating special features such as an overhead arch can all turn your garden gate from ho-hum to shining star.

Getting Started

A gate should be welcoming, obvious, easy to access and effortless to use. The rest of the details — size, location and style — are up to you. They can be the entry point to your property from the sidewalk or street in your front yard, allow access to the back yard from the front, open onto a back alley or even connect your yard with a neighbor’s space.

Size

Gates can range in size from very low, maybe 3 feet high, to very tall, 8 feet high or more. A standard width for a single gate is 3 feet, which provides plenty of room for people and most basic landscaping equipment, such as a lawn mower or a wheelbarrow, to go through.

A double-wide gate is both a gracious entry as well as a practical choice for transferring larger pieces of equipment — anything from a riding mower to a small sailboat — between two spaces.

If your gate will span a driveway, consider setting the posts or supports about a foot beyond the driveway on each side. This makes it more open and also can help prevent cars from accidentally scraping the supports.

Finding Your Gate Style

A look that complements your landscape or your home’s architectural elements (or both) is a good starting point for your gate’s style. A gate that blends seamlessly with an adjoining fence creates a cohesive look throughout the landscape.

If you want to add a subtle difference or some contrast, consider an arched or scalloped top, latticework or a grid pattern, or a decorative design along the top. This might be an opportunity to add in a second material, such as pairing wood with metal or bamboo. You can also include peepholes or see-through cutouts, either for people or pets.

Choosing a gate material that contrasts with fencing or walls will turn your gate into a focal point. A metal gate set into a wood fence can span design styles from traditional to contemporary. A glass gate will modernize your look.

If the top of the gate is slightly lower than the surrounding fence, a simple frame above it can help tie it into the adjoining fence boards. If security isn’t a concern, consider going with a shorter gate, perhaps topped by a trellis, for a welcoming look. Other possibilities include replacing solid boards with latticework or adding decorative elements such as filigrees and arches to the body or top of a metal gate.

Gate Material Options

Wood and metal are the top material choices for gates. Vinyl fences pair naturally with vinyl fencing, but you can also incorporate them as a standalone element. Bamboo and glass are less commonly used but make a strong visual statement. A gate also gives you the opportunity to experiment with a blend of materials.

Wood

Wood is sturdy, easy to install and can be stained, painted or left its natural color. It is also adaptable to almost any design or style. Wood is one of the least expensive gate materials, especially if you choose a wood that is native to or grows easily in your area.

A wood gate will require regular maintenance, which can include sanding and sealing, re-staining or repainting. It will also expand and shrink over the years, and you may have to replace individual pieces that warp, bend or break or reset how the gate hangs.

It will also need to be replaced eventually. You should expect a wood gate to last 10 years at least. With regular upkeep, it will likely last longer, up to 20 years or even more.

Wood Composites

Wood composite gates and boards are made from a variety of materials, including recycled plastic. They are more durable, rot resistant and longer lasting than wood. They also hold up to extreme heat, cold and hard wear better than vinyl.

More color options that closely mimic wood are becoming available. With the right preparation, they can also be painted. Care consists of periodically hosing the boards down.

Wood composite is more expensive than wood at the onset. It also can fade over the years. You may need to replace a wood composite fence every 25 years or so.

Vinyl

If you have a vinyl fence of any style, pair it with a vinyl gate. As a material, vinyl is more expensive up-front than wood, but it also lasts longer. It’s a good choice for warm yet damp climates. It doesn’t warp, rot or shrink; it’s immune to insects and doesn’t need to be painted.

Vinyl traditionally had a fairly limited color palette, but more color options are becoming available, including ones that mimic wood tones. Repairs can be difficult, and vinyl can be damaged when exposed to extreme elements.

Vinyl is very low maintenance, only requiring periodic hosing off and occasionally scrubbing stubborn grime with a diluted dish soap mixture. Expect a vinyl gate to last 30 years or more.

Metal

Aluminum, steel and wrought iron are design stars of the metal gate world. They can create a distinctive, classical look, fit into a rustic design or add a modern sensibility. They can be a solid barrier or allow glimpses both into and outside of your yard. Though a plain metal gate with vertical bars works well for a streamlined look, adding decorative elements will make your gate stand out.

Metal gates are very sturdy and won’t fade over time. They’re a good choice for those living in cold climates, as they can handle temperature extremes.

Aluminum is lightweight and rust resistant but not as sturdy as stainless steel or wrought iron. Stainless steel provides more strength over time but can rust unless treated. Once the gate develops rust, it will need to be sanded and repainted. It is also very heavy.

Both aluminum and stainless steel are more expensive than wood, falling in the mid-range for prices, but they will last longer.

Another option is weathering steel (sometimes called Cor-Ten). It’s admired for its natural or rustic feel, although it can also work well with a contemporary design. Unlike other metal options, weathering steel is designed to develop rust over time. It will be more expensive than aluminum or stainless steel.

To reduce the rusty runoff often associated with weathering steel, detail the gate so it won’t stain surrounding materials. Install it away from the concrete or add drainage that will carry any runoff away from paving. Installing weathering steel on gravel or mulch will result in less-noticeable rust stains.

Wrought iron is the most expensive metal option but offers a timeless appeal that will work with any landscape or architectural style. Although wrought iron gates are very durable and require little upkeep, any chips or damage can open the door to rust if you don’t repair them as soon as possible.

Bamboo

Harvested bamboo is gaining popularity as a landscape material. It is a fast-growing plant, which makes it an eco-friendly material, but you need to be sure the bamboo you’re choosing is sustainably grown.

Bamboo’s density and thickness allow it to stand up to moisture much more readily than wood. It gives a landscape a rustic, natural or Asian feel. Adding a wood frame around the bamboo will give it a finished look. Bamboo stands up well to heat and snow and can be cleaned with water.

You can leave bamboo in its natural state, although it will fade with time. It also can be stained, although you’ll usually need to renew that annually. Bamboo can dent, chip, crack or split, so occasional repairs may be needed.

Bamboo is more expensive than most other gate materials. Expect a bamboo gate in a frame to last at least 20 years.

Glass

A glass gate is an uncommon choice but makes a strong statement in your landscape. It’s a great option for a contemporary or modern look. Your design opportunities are surprisingly varied, including your choice for colors. Choosing translucent glass will offer some privacy while still allowing light into your yard.

You’ll likely need to clean both sides of the glass at least as often as you’d clean windows in your home, and more often if it gets a fair amount of use. The glass can also mar and scratch. While a glass gate is cheaper than adding a full fence of glass, it will still be expensive.

Other Considerations for Adding a Gate

Finishing Touches

The right latch is just as important as the right gate. There are many hardware options to choose from, and, like the gate itself, they should be both decorative and easy to use. Look at your latch as an opportunity to dress up your gate a bit more.

Latches should also be reliable. If security is a concern, consider adding a deadbolt to the gate.

Permits And Regulations

Whether you need a permit for a gate varies widely by location, so check with your building department first for any required permits, regulations or restrictions. Homeowner associations may also have restrictions or guidelines.

Safety

If you have a pool or other “attractive nuisance” in your yard, most local codes have specific requirements regarding the size, locks and permitted materials for gates leading to that area. You can always call your area’s building department or planner and ask for guidance.

When To Do This Project

Installing a gate can be done almost any time. If you live in a cold-weather climate, you will want to tackle this project when the weather is warmer, especially if you need to install posts or dig trenches.

How Long It Will Take

Once the gate is ready to install, it will go quickly. Most gates can be put in place in a day. if you need to set posts or build the gate on site, it may take longer. Larger gates or those that require trenching or electrical work will take longer.

Whom to Hire

If you’re adding a custom gate, you’ll want to work with a fabricator or artisan who specializes in the materials you want to use.

Once a gate is ready to install, look for a licensed landscape contractor. Gates get a lot of use, so you’ll want to be sure yours is done right. If the gate is part of a fence installation, it will usually be included. You also may need added expertise to install a one-of-a-kind gate or one made with unusual materials, such as glass.

If you’re installing a gate, such as one across a driveway, that will open automatically with a remote, keypad or app, you will need additional prep work. You’ll need a fence contractor to install the gate and oversee the other work, a landscaper to trench for the electrician, an electrician to put in the conduit and wire to the gate’s operators and a company to install the operators and the controls.

A gate across a driveway will limit your access from your home if it malfunctions, so look for a reputable company with good reviews. A landscaper or pavement specialist may also be involved in finishing the paving under the gate.

Before you hire anyone, be sure they are familiar with the scope of the project and are experienced in handling the materials you want to use.