A pergola is versatile. The material it is made of and where you place it in your garden can turn it from a functional but basic structure into a one-of-a-kind statement piece. You can add lights, ceiling fans and adjustable overhead slats to entertainment systems, fire features and outdoor kitchens.

A pergola covered with plants, both on the exterior and hanging inside, is the very definition of a garden room. A pergola is the perfect spot to show off spectacular climbing or vining plants — anything from ivy and wisteria to roses and clematis. You could even add some edibles, such as tomatoes or grapes.

Here’s what to know about adding a pergola to your yard — including ideas for the design and location, the pros and cons of different materials, and whom to hire if you don’t do it yourself.

What Is a Pergola?

A classic pergola’s design is simple. It consists of four posts, which support four crossbeams or a mix of beams and rafters around the top edge of the structure. A slatted or lattice roof provides filtered shade.

A pergola has the look of an arbour and, like an arbour, is traditionally covered with climbing or vining plants. The primary difference between the two structures is size. Pergolas are designed as places for lingering rather than passing through, so they are usually much larger, with dimensions similar to those of a gazebo or pavilion. 

Who To Hire

For most homeowners, hiring a landscape architect, a designer or contractor is a good idea for adding a custom pergola. Even with pergola kits, hiring a contractor is a good choice. For more extensive landscape projects, look for a landscape architect or designer. While the cost is higher, a professional can help you finalize your plans, including what will work best to provide the right blend of sun and shade.

Landscape professionals will also analyze your proposed site and do any necessary prep work; get permits; mark off water, gas and power lines; and coordinate workers. If you’re adding electricity for lighting and fans, you will need a licensed electrician. A professional should also be hired to install gas and plumbing lines. You may also want an expert to help with installing entertainment systems.

Before choosing a professional for your pergola project, be sure to see if he or she has experience with building the type of pergola you want. As with any project, ask for references and to see examples of work.

Expert do-it-yourselfers can order pergola plans or a kit with pre-cut pieces. If you do choose a kit, be sure the materials will stand up to your climate and site conditions. Before you consider this route, take stock of your tools and your expertise level. In addition to building, you’ll also need to take on the legwork of getting permits, preparing the site and checking for gas and plumbing lines. Remember that much of your work will be done on the top of the pergola, and staying safe while working on overhead elements is essential.

Design Considerations for a Pergola

Pergolas can be incorporated into almost any area of the landscape and can serve a variety of purposes. You can also fit them to your personal style and preferred materials. Here are some things to consider when adding a pergola to your yard.

Where Will It Go?

Consider placing a pergola where it best suits your needs — creating a getaway spot or secondary dining or seating area, overlooking an amazing view, capturing summer breezes or providing a bit of shade in an otherwise too-hot section of your yard.

Pergolas can also add a sense of enclosure for a hot tub or spa, while still keeping the space open to the landscape. Situating a pergola at the end or side of a pool creates a convenient spot for lounging away from the direct sun.

You can also add a pergola as part of a larger deck or patio project, as a freestanding structure or attached to one side to your home or another structure. Use a pergola within a larger deck or patio to define the dining area or outdoor kitchen, create a conversation area or add some afternoon shade.

Size

Once you’ve decided how you want to use your pergola, you’ll need to determine how large you want to make it. If you’re planning to use the space for lounging or dining, be sure to allow enough space to make it comfortable for you and your guests.

Style

The look you want is also a key factor in choosing a pergola design. Matching your pergola style to both your home and your landscape will make it feel like a part of the entire yard. You might opt for wood in a naturalistic garden and with a traditional home, or a sleek metal design for a contemporary home. If you really want your pergola to stand out, consider a design that will add some unexpected contrast.

The size of the support posts and overhead pieces will affect the look of your pergola. Slender posts and beams, whether made of metal or wood, lend themselves to a more refined and less intrusive look. More robust posts will add more weight and presence, along with rustic appeal.

Roof Structure

Consider if you’d like your pergola to protect the space beneath it from sun and rain or to simply provide structure for climbing plants or overhead string lights.

The spacing of overhead slats and how they are set, whether horizontally, vertically or at an angle, will determine the amount of sunlight that reaches the interior of a pergola throughout the day. Movable overhead slats or louvers can be adjusted to adapt to the available sunshine or even shut completely in case of wet weather.

Shade cloths and retractable canopies can provide additional overhead protection. For a more open, less confining feel, think about designing a gabled or arched roof, or even eliminating any sort of roof altogether.

Side Walls or Screens

While the sides of a pergola are traditionally left open, adding lattice screens, partial walls or even a full wall on one side of a pergola can provide privacy if needed. Less permanent privacy options include installing curtains or shades that can be pulled shut when needed, or lining the sides with tall plants.

Bonus Features

Depending on your needs and where you live, you may consider adding amenities such as lights, fans and mounted heaters. Other options include permanent seating — perhaps even a swing — and gas and electrical lines for features like a fire pit or spa. Keep in mind that these features can increase the project’s overall cost and installation time.

Material Options

Many people think of wood when it comes to pergolas, but your material options are surprisingly wide. Vinyl and fiberglass are lightweight and long-lasting options, as is aluminum. Steel pergolas are heavier but also a good choice to consider.

Wood

Wood remains a favorite choice for outdoor structures, especially pergolas, thanks to its natural good looks, adaptability and durability — it’s able to handle most weather conditions. Wood pergolas can be either freestanding or attached. Their cost is typically in the midrange for material options.

Naturally rot- and pest-resistant woods, are good choices for a pergola, but these materials can be regional and difficult to find, depending on where you live. If it’s difficult to find them, you can check with local building suppliers for good substitutes for your location. Tropical hardwood options include ipe, teak and mahogany; they’re pest- and rot-resistant, good for coastal locations. Before you buy, check that the wood is certified as sustainable by the Forest Stewardship Council (FSC). These woods are also more expensive and can be harder to work with than some other types.

A final option is pressure-treated woods. These are usually competitively priced and easy to work with, but folks might have concerns about using materials that have been treated with chemicals to make them more long-lasting.

While outdoor-grade wood is a good choice for landscape projects, it may not last as long as high-quality vinyl, fiberglass or metal. Any type of wood requires sealing and usually staining or painting when you first install it. Sealing will keep cedar, redwood and mahogany from fading to gray. While hardwoods can be painted, many people prefer to simply seal them to showcase their natural beauty. Redwood and pressure-treated lumber can also be stained or painted.

You’ll also need to maintain that finish, resealing and staining every year or two and repainting every few years. Even with regular maintenance, you may need to make more extensive repairs after 10 years or so.

If you’re growing plants on your pergola, the moisture from the plants themselves, combined with their weight, can damage wood posts and overheads. Trim back the plants and check for signs of damage yearly.

Vinyl and Fiberglass

High-quality custom-made vinyl pergolas and vinyl pergola kits are readily available and a great choice for a traditional look at a reasonable price. Vinyl pergolas are very long-lasting and relatively maintenance-free, requiring only cleaning every year or so to keep them looking good.

Vinyl pergolas come in limited colors — primarily shades of white — and can’t be painted. Their light weight limits their overall span, and they can sag under a snow load. They are usually freestanding, but some companies do offer the option to attach them to a home.

Fiberglass pergolas, whether you choose a kit or have one custom-made, are less common than their vinyl cousins but share their care requirements. They are also one of the higher-priced choices, but they make up for the initial cost with their long-term low maintenance costs. They can be freestanding or attached, and your choice of styles and colors is far greater than with vinyl options — they can also can be painted. Though still lightweight, they are much sturdier than vinyl, especially for snow loads.

Metal

For a clean, contemporary look that will last for years, consider a pergola made of aluminum or steel that has a finish to prevent rust. Your options include both custom designs and pergola kits. If you choose the latter, make sure it is high quality to get the long lifespan these materials are known for. Pergolas of either material can be freestanding or attached to the home.

Aluminum is a good choice for coastal locations, thanks to its resistance to rust. Its cost is higher than vinyl’s but usually lower than or equal to that of wood. One thing to know about an aluminum pergola is that its light weight means it has to be well-anchored in areas with heavy wind.

Steel is heavier, making it stronger and more impervious to weather. It also can span longer distances without needing supports, which is a bonus for larger installations. It falls on the high end of costs for materials.

Both materials are strong and extremely low-maintenance, and are good choices for a range of climates. Wipe down finished steel or aluminum with a noncorrosive cleaner every year or so. That’s also a good time to check the connections on the pergola to be sure they haven’t loosened.

Other Considerations

Permitting and Codes

Before starting any pergola project, check with your local building department about the necessary permits and code requirements. While smaller structures, usually under 100 square feet, may not need permits, there still may be regulations that will affect the overall height and where you can build. You’ll also need to check on the location of any gas, water or power lines before you level the ground or dig for footings.

If you belong to a homeowners association, check for any guidelines or restrictions regarding location, size, materials or finishes.

Anchoring Your Pergola

Whatever your pergola’s material or style, you’ll need to be sure its posts are securely anchored to the ground. Pergolas over decks and concrete slabs can be anchored with fasteners that are specifically designed for that purpose. For other surfaces, including pavers, the posts will need to be set into the ground. This involves pouring concrete footers or installing anchors on a footing that can literally screw into the ground. If you live in an area that experiences freeze-thaw cycles, the posts will need to be set below the frost line. An experienced landscape contractor will be able to handle any of these installations.

When To Do This Project

As with any outdoor project, the best time to build is during good weather from spring to fall.

How Long Will It Take

Depending on the complexity and the amount of preparation needed, including time for setting concrete footings and staining or finishing the materials, it could take about a week to build a basic pergola. If your design is more complicated or you’re installing amenities such as an outdoor kitchen or fireplace, expect a longer timeline.

Nothing creates a welcoming entry to a home quite like a porch. Even the smallest porch creates a gracious transition between the outdoors and indoor living spaces. A somewhat larger porch can provide a spot to pull up a chair or two and grow a container garden. Go big, and your porch can become an outdoor living room filled with comfy seating, a spot for outdoor dining and maybe even a swing — the perfect place to sit and watch the world go by.

What Is a Porch?

A porch, by definition, is a covered space at the front of a home’s entrance that is at least partially opened at the sides. What makes it different from a deck is that it also has a roof, which is generally separate from the roof of the house. Other familiar names for a porch include veranda, loggia, piazza and lanai. No matter what you call it, a porch adds an appealing and useful design element to almost any home.

A porch may also play an essential role in allowing you to enjoy your outdoor space. Depending on the climate, you may need the shade or protection from the elements that a roof structure can provide to really create an outdoor living space.

Variations of the basic porch have evolved over the years. Screened porches and sun porches create an outdoor space that’s still protected from insects and the elements. Old-fashioned sleeping porches, usually located on the second floor, can add a retro or campy vibe — in addition to being a cool spot to sleep on hot summer evenings.

Whom to Hire

For most porch projects, your best bet is to hire a licensed contractor, especially one who is experienced with building porches. A professional will be able to help with designs and permits as well as building the necessary support structures and finished elements. If you are adding electrical or plumbing, you will need a licensed professional.

As with any project, ask for references and to see examples of past work.

Design Considerations for a Porch

Where To Put It

A porch set at the front of your home, framing your entry door, is what many people visualize when considering a porch. Porches aren’t limited to the front of your house, however. A side or back porch can provide a sheltered space between your home and your backyard. Wrapping a porch from the front to the side of the house will expand your usable outdoor space. Another option is to add a porch to the second floor.

Style

A porch’s design should complement your home’s style. A contemporary home might look best with a sleek and simple concrete porch that plays off the lines of the architecture. A wood porch with traditional railings and trim can highlight the details of a Craftsman or Victorian home. Sturdy pillars or columns along with tile flooring can bring out the beauty of a Mediterranean-style home.

Size

Porch size is an important consideration as well. Even a compact porch should be large enough that people can stand comfortably on it, especially in the area directly in front of any door. If you plan to use your porch as more than just an entry spot or a platform for showing off container plants, it will need to be at least several feet deep.

Roof Structure 

The ceiling and slope of a porch roof are also important design elements. Most porches have a fairly simple and shallow, or almost flat, roofline that doesn’t overshadow the home’s façade. You may decide to mix that up, even raising the roof to a peak.

The underside of the roof, which serves as the ceiling for the porch, is usually finished in wood, vinyl or fiber-cement siding. You might consider adding design elements like beams for a more customized, detailed look, especially if you plan to spend a lot of time enjoying the porch.

Support Posts

You’ll also want to consider what you want the support columns for the roof to look like. Basic posts are generally made from metal or wood. Simple posts work well with most designs, but you can add additional flair if you want.

Wood can be used to make posts thicker, or posts can be wrapped to look like stone or stucco columns. Columns and pillars add more heft and work well with a range of styles. Mix wood and brick or stone for a more rustic or Craftsman look.

Steps and Railings

Steps are a necessity if the porch is more than a single step above the ground. Railings define the space and provide a measure of safety; they are usually a requirement if your porch is more than 30 inches off the ground. In some cases, you may want to add railings with even a shorter drop.

Most railings are wood, metal or vinyl. Tempered glass panels lend a more contemporary look and allow you to enjoy an unobstructed view while also serving as a windbreak. Cable railings add sleek lines in a more contemporary design.

Half walls add more of a sense of enclosure to a porch. They’re a good choice for sun porches and screened porches.

Decorative trim along the roof line, at the ends of beams or between posts also adds a bit of architectural styling to the porch.

Bonus Features

If you’re planning on using your porch as an outdoor living area, ceiling fans, overhead heaters, lighting, skylights and curtains can make it even more comfortable. More elaborate options might include adding a fireplace or TV setup.

Material Options for a Porch

The materials you choose for the various parts of your porch will define the look and feel of the space. Look for options that will give you the porch look you want and will stand up to weather and usage.

Wood and Wood Composites

Wood decking is a classic material choice that works for nearly every porch style, from a simple farmhouse home to a grand Victorian. It also can stand up to the foot traffic a porch will likely get.

Wood is also a popular choice for ceilings, steps, railings and posts. It gives you almost unlimited design options for posts and trims. If you want a wood porch, your material choices include natural wood and wood board composites.

Traditional wood flooring for a porch is often fir, but you can also opt for cedar and redwood for naturally rot-resistant choices or tropical hardwoods like mahogany or ipe. For a porch ceiling, consider any of these materials, along with pine, plywood or even beadboard.

Wood can be sealed to keep its natural look, stained or painted.

Maintaining a wood floor or steps will be the majority of your wood-related maintenance work, although you will also need to periodically refresh your ceiling boards. Along with regular cleaning, check for popped nails and split and rotted boards and replace them. Wood can also twist or warp. Seal or paint the wood every few years as it wears or fades.

Wood composite boards are engineered products made from a mixture of wood fibers and plastic that can be used as a stand-in for wood. These materials are typically more expensive than wood, but they don’t fade with age or have the same maintenance requirements. The only care they normally need is regular cleaning with water and a little dish soap.

Concrete

Concrete is another popular choice for porch flooring and steps. It is long-lasting and generally low-maintenance. Its finish can be smooth, patterned, brushed or stamped. You can also tint the color when you mix it or stain or paint it later.

Caring for concrete generally involves sweeping, rinsing off stubborn dirt and cleaning stains. You’ll want to repair any cracks and refresh the paint. If the concrete is sealed, which is often done with special surfaces, you will need to reseal every few years.

Finishing a concrete porch floor with a layer of brick, stone or tile can give the design a more detailed, stylized look.

Metal

While metal isn’t generally used for porch floors or steps, it can be used for design details that work with both traditional and contemporary styles.

Metal railings and posts are generally less bulky than wood and don’t obstruct the view of the house as much. And who can resist the sound of rain on a metal roof, especially when you’re dry underneath?

Aluminum railings are affordable, long-lasting, rot- and rust-resistant and easy to maintain. They come in a variety of styles, from plain to highly decorative, and you can mix them with other materials and styles.

Aluminum railings usually just require periodic cleaning. If they are painted or untreated, you’ll need to take care of any rust or chips as they appear.

Other metal options include stainless steel, which is functional but not as decorative, and wrought iron, which adds a traditional feel but isn’t as strong or rust-resistant. Wrought iron, while attractive, can rust, so you’ll need to periodically clean and treat railings made from this material.

Vinyl

Vinyl has become a popular option for railings, thanks to its reasonable cost, durability and ease of maintenance. You can also install vinyl beadboard on a porch ceiling.

Wherever you install vinyl, its only maintenance will be periodic cleaning.

Other Considerations for Adding a Porch

Permits and Codes

Adding a porch almost always requires a building permit. Building codes may also affect the size of your porch or the amenities you add to it. If you belong to a homeowners association, you should also check any requirements or restrictions it might have.

How Long It Will Take

Building a porch is a project for spring through fall. Use the winter months to start planning, finding a contractor and applying for approvals and permits. A basic porch can take three to four weeks to complete. The more complex you get could add a substantial amount of time.

The building permit process can be a frustrating, costly and-time consuming, but there is purpose to the process and no getting around your local jurisdiction if you want to do your project right.

Here are the building permit basics, it’s an overview of a subject you should familiarize yourself with before tackling your home remodel project.

When Is a Permit Required?

The building code has evolved to protect a home’s occupants as well as the community, but first you need to determine whether a permit is needed.

In cases of simple interior cosmetic changes, such as repainting and installing interior trim or carpet, a permit is not needed.

For remodels that add square footage to your home or make structural modifications, a permit will definitely be needed. Other projects, such as those involving cosmetic changes to your exterior or landscape, may or may not require a permit.

When in doubt, take a trip down to your local District Office and ask, or seek help from a reputable professional in your area.

Submittal Process

Your first mission is to determine the entire scope of your project be as specific as possible. With a clear understanding of what the job entails, you can prepare your plan for the submittal process.

Once the scope is determined, the next step is getting the approval of your planning department. Planning departments review your plan to ensure that the general plan and rules governing land use in your community are followed. If you live in a community with a homeowners association, you may also need approval from your association.

After receiving planning approval, your plan can be reviewed by the building department. The building department carefully reviews plans for adherence to the building code, including review of any structural, electrical and mechanical modifications.

Code Requirements

If you are using a design and building professional, they should have a thorough understanding of the code, but the code continues to evolve, and if you plan to oversee your own project, there are certain rules you should familiarize yourself with. These include egress and electrical requirements.

Green Building and Energy Codes

The purpose of the building code is to protect not only occupants, but also the general community. This is where green building and energy code requirements come in.

Your project will be required to adhere to these codes adopted by your community. Green building codes set minimum standards for a project in terms of water consumption, air quality, toxicity of materials, building efficiency, general waste reduction and storm water management.

Energy code requirements vary greatly depending on the region you live in, and they involve details such as insulation and HVAC systems regulating the energy efficiency of your home.

The Inspection Process

While the number of inspections required for a given project can vary greatly, from one simple visit to a series of a dozen or more, there is one piece of advice that holds true in all cases: It pays to develop a relationship with your inspector and seek his or her advice every chance you get.

Reputable building professionals establish trust with local inspectors, and if you are doing your own work, you should build a rapport with your inspector by communicating openly and listening to the inspector’s advice.

The required inspections for your project should be clearly defined by your building jurisdiction and might include areas such as concrete, utilities, underfloor work, exterior walls, roofs and insulation, all leading up to the final inspection.

Final Inspection

It’s the moment of truth. On the day of your final inspection, all the planning and all the work are in the past, as long as the inspector conducting the final review says so.

If you have properly prepared for the final inspection by communicating with your inspector, seeking a checklist of all the requirements to be reviewed, you have gone a long way toward ensuring success. There are some specific requirements that commonly trip up projects, but the most common infraction is a failure to follow the approved plan.

The safety of your family is at stake, but so is their general well-being and the welfare of your community. It’s why the building code exists, and you will sleep better and avoid financial risks.

Hiring a reputable professional is the best way to ensure success, but if you are doing the work yourself, be sure you are educated on the building permit requirements relating to your project.

Want to cut down on waste, save money and ensure your soil is healthy and nutrient rich? A great way to do it is to try making your own compost. Here is what you need to know about setting up and maintaining a compost area in your outdoor space.

Which Type Of Compost Bin Should I Use?

When it comes to choosing a compost bin, there are a number of things to think about. The key elements you need are air, moisture and heat - produced by the breakdown process.

There are so many options: plastic, wooden, tumbler and hot compost bins. But it really depends on how much waste you are going to compost, how much work you want to do and how long you’re willing to wait. For example, a hot compost bin keeps the temperature higher, speeding up the process. So you have usable compost faster. A tumbler compost bin makes turning your compost easier.

Size

When considering the height of your bin and make sure you can easily lift a shovel into it and reach in to turn the compost. If it comes with a lid, you’ll need it to be big enough for the shovel, because don’t want to turn it by hand.

If you have the space, A larger compost bin with three-sections is a good option, as this allows you to fill one bin while turning another in rotation. It can be frustrating when your bin becomes full before you’ve produced anything. 

Material

Material is also a key factor in your choice. Dark plastic will absorb heat, which will speed up the decomposition process. They are also often smaller, so are well suited to smaller gardens. Wooden bins can be larger in size, and the larger the pile of material, the higher the temperature it can reach, speeding up decomposition.

How Should I Prepare My Compost Bin?

Compost bins should be laid straight onto the bare earth, with some brown, woody waste material at the bottom to help with drainage.

You could add shredded paper, a layer of grass clippings, autumn leaves — anything that allows the worms to get into the compost.

If your composter doesn’t already have a lid, you can use an old piece of carpet or a sheet of plastic or wood – anything that will completely cover the pile to help keep the heat in.

Laying a weed-control membrane on top, or something that lets the rain get into your compost, will help the microorganisms break it down.

Once this is all in place, you just start adding to it. Try to alternate between soft and woody materials. “

What Should I Add To My Compost Bin?

To get good compost, you need to put in a mix of hard and soft materials. You want it to cater to the tastes of as many microorganisms and worms as you can — too much of any one thing can cause problems and slow or stop the process.

Green Material (Nitrogen Rich)

The professionals recommend adding garden waste, such as lawn clippings and prunings, and vegetable waste. It’s best to mix lawn clippings with other stuff to avoid compacted layers that will struggle to decompose evenly. Every so often, add layers of cardboard to improve aeration.

Soft green waste - food waste - should make up to half of the compost bin.

Organic Material (Carbon Rich)

The rest can be woody materials, such as plant clippings and wood chips, but avoid putting in any very large branches, as these will take a long time to rot.

What Should I Do to Help The Process Along?

Aerate Your Compost Pile 

It’s important to keep your compost pile aerated to give oxygen to the organisms that break down the waste materials. The best way is by turning or digging your compost frequently – ideally at least once a month. It’s hard work, but it’s essential for air to get through.

Poking holes with a broom handle can help, so can putting in coarse material, such as straw, to create air pockets throughout the pile. It also needs moisture, so in dry weather it should be watered.

How Long Until I Have Usable Compost?

An open bin will take around a year to turn waste into compost. Some of the more techy hot compost bins can turn it around much quicker.

The timeframe is also affected by what you add to your compost bin. The more woody material can take around three years to break down; for the softer plant material, it can be less than a year. You’ll know it’s ready when it’s broken down and looks like soil.

Can I Use Half-Ready Compost?

You can, but it’s not recommend. The decomposing process requires carbon (C) and nitrogen (N). If you add your unfinished compost to the soil, there will be a period in which the unfinished compost will take C and N from the soil to decompose itself, so there will be less available for the plants.

How Do I Avoid Pests?

Avoid any cooked waste. Try to stick with vegetable waste and other green material in order to deter rats.

Rats are drawn to the smell of decaying food, so if your compost bin is well balanced, the rats will be less of an issue. Thin layers of grass clippings and shredded paper help to keep a healthy compost pile.

Make sure your compost is well mixed, which will reduce the smell, which may attract pests.

Can I Add Compostable Bags?

They don’t decompose completely. After a year, you may still have some bags around. You can use bags but don’t put them into the compost.

For gardeners, poring over the pages of a seed catalog can be a feast for the eyes; heirloom tomatoes, basil, the seed varieties available to home gardeners rival any farmers market. Similarly, going to a nursery and seeing row upon row of baby tomato, lettuce and kale plants can make it hard to decide where to start. What’s a backyard food grower to do?

By growing a small selection of carefully chosen crops, you will give yourself the best opportunity for success. If you’re new to gardening, it’s better to grow just five types of vegetables rather than 15. Over time, you’ll learn which crops and varieties work best for your microclimate, taste and lifestyle.

Here are some of the best vegetables and herbs for gardeners of all types, including beginners. In addition to being easy to grow and productive, many of these crops are well-suited to growing in small spaces.

Start with favorite vegetables that you regularly buy from the grocery store. If you’re a big fan of kale salads, be sure to plant kale. Radishes are very easy to grow and look gorgeous, but if you’re not a fan of eating them, don’t grow them.

Tender greens like spinach thrive in cool environments. To find vegetables that suit your growing region, look for local seed companies, check out what’s being grown in farmers markets and ask neighbors what they’re growing. Find out your area’s average first and last frost dates; these will provide an essential guideline for when to plant seeds.

Your garden space will also inform what you can grow. If your space is small, choose plants with a small footprint. Zucchini can grow in a large container, but their huge, sprawling leaves may take up the better part of a balcony garden.

Snap Peas

Few things in life rival the flavor of a fresh snap pea right off the vine. Because the sugars in this crop degrade quickly, snap peas truly taste better when grown at home. With their vertical growth, peas don’t take up much room — just be sure to set up a trellis and train them rigorously, as the vines can get unruly. Peas are a cool-season crop and are planted directly into the soil as seeds in late winter or early spring in most areas.

Tip: 

Use a pea inoculant (a powder that acts like a probiotic for peas and beans) at the time of planting to ensure success. Look for varieties that are resistant to pea enation mosaic virus and powdery mildew.

When to Plant: 

Sow seeds about four to six weeks before the average last frost date in spring. In mild-winter climates, peas can also be planted in the fall; sow seeds two to three months before the first expected frost date.

Light Requirement: 

Full sun to partial shade; provide afternoon shade in hot climates.

Radishes

Cheery, colorful radishes are some of the first vegetables gardeners can harvest in the spring. This attractive cool-season plant grows quickly and takes up little room, making it an ideal choice for small-space gardeners. The leaves are also edible and can make a good substitute for cooked spinach.

When to Plant: 

Sow seeds two to three weeks before the average last frost date in spring, and in late summer four to six weeks before the average first fall frost. Continue sowing seeds every two weeks in both spring and fall.

Light Requirement: 

Full sun to partial shade

Mint

Want your own supply of peppermint tea? It’s as easy as growing a peppermint plant. This perennial herb grows so vigorously that it should always be planted in containers — otherwise, it may take over your entire garden. Keep your mint tidy with regular trimming, or allow it to go to flower and attract tons of bees. This hard-to-kill plant is a great choice for apartment gardeners.

When to Plant: 

Purchase seedlings from a garden supply store, or ask a friend to dig up a section of his or her plant. Plant seedlings in early spring, or in the fall in warm-winter climates.

Light Requirement: 

Full sun to partial shade

Chives

Snipped chives taste delicious on eggs, pasta — just about everything. In grocery stores, they can be difficult to find and expensive, but in gardens, they’re incredibly easy to grow. This perennial herb has a long harvest season and will come back year after year if you plant it in nice rich soil. Try growing them in a large pot right outside your kitchen window. Harvest chives by simply giving them a “haircut” with kitchen scissors as needed.

When to Plant: 

Purchase seedlings from a garden supply store, or start seeds indoors eight to ten weeks before the average last frost date. Plant seedlings in the early spring. Chives are perennials and take several years to reach their full size, so harvest lightly until your plants are well-established.

Light Requirement: 

Full sun

Mesclun Mix

The word “mesclun” comes from the Provençal word for “mixture.” In gardening terms, mesclun is a combination of seeds that are planted together to create a ready-made baby salad featuring a variety of colors, flavors and textures. The result is similar to the packaged salad mixes you can find in grocery stores, but far more fresh and exciting. Seed catalogs often have a variety of mesclun mixes to choose from, typically featuring arugula, mustard greens and lettuce.

Tip: 

To achieve success with mescluns, sow seeds thinly (about one seed per square half-inch). Plant some each week and harvest leaves with scissors as soon as they look ready.

When to Plant: 

Plant a little mesclun every one to two weeks from early spring to early summer. In mild-winter climates, plant again from late summer to mid-fall. Water well and protect from hot temperatures.

Light Requirement: 

Full sun to partial shade

Kale

If you’re growing kale in containers, sow seeds similarly to mesclun mixes and harvest the baby greens. In raised beds with rich soil, many varieties will grow more than 6 feet tall. Choose your kale variety according to your climate and season. 

When to Plant: 

Sow seeds in early to midsummer for fall and winter harvest. For a summer harvest, plant seeds in spring two weeks to a month before the last frost date.

Light Requirement: 

Full sun; provide afternoon shade in very hot climates.

Cherry Tomatoes

Tomatoes are one of the most rewarding crops to grow in a home garden. If you’re a new gardener, start with a classic disease-resistant cherry tomato like ‘Sweet Million’. Be sure to build a trellis for the long vines, and plant them in a sunny spot where they can be protected from rain. Cherry tomatoes are an ideal choice for container gardens.

When to Plant: 

Set out starts or nursery plants when the soil is warm and there’s no danger of frost. Start seeds indoors five to eight weeks before your planned planting date.

Light Requirement: 

Full sun

Zucchini

Get ready, because once your zucchini plants start producing, it’ll be hard to keep up with them. Zucchini are famous for producing more food than most people can handle. Check your plants every day or two, and harvest them as soon as they’re a little over a foot long. Just make sure that you have enough space in your garden for this sprawling plant.

When to Plant: 

Sow seeds about two weeks after the last frost date when soil temperatures reach 21 degrees Celsius. You can start seeds indoors about one week before that date.

Light requirement: 

Full sun

By choosing only a few veggies or herbs that you enjoy eating, and that are suited to your growing environment, you’ll set yourself up for a fun and successful gardening experience. Enjoy the process of learning which plants work best for you.