Here’s what to consider about material, style, fuel type, location, cost and safety when adding an outdoor fire pit.

So many options awaits you when it comes to buying a fire pit, whether you purchase a ready-made model or work with a craftsman to make one custom for your space. Either way, it can be tough to know where to begin. Here’s some tips to help guide your decision process.

Local Regulations

Before you jump into buying a fire pit, check with your city building codes and local authorities for regulations about outdoor fire pit placement or restrictions for burning wood. If you live in a condo or apartment complex, also check with your building or homeowners association to see if there are any regulations regarding outdoor fire pits. If you’re renting, run it past your landlord.

There are often regulations regarding fire pit placement for safety, such as siting a fire pit at least 10 feet away from buildings and fences. Some areas may require a site inspection by local fire officials to check that your proposed location is fire-safe. If your area regulates fuel type for environmental reasons, skip wood-burning models and opt for smoke-free ones that run on propane or natural gas.

Style

Fire pits come in a range of shapes, sizes and designs that can fit with any backyard style and homeowner needs. The challenge is narrowing your options and finding the right one for you. A good place to start is to identify a fire pit that coordinates with your existing backyard design in style, color, shape or material.

In addition to selecting a fire pit that fits in with the overall landscape style, choose a model that suits how you intend to use it. 

Size

Fire pit sizes range from small portable models to larger built-in styles. Choose a size and style that fits with your budget and location. Store-bought fire pit models commonly range from 24 to 30 inches in diameter. Built-in units can range from 36 to 58 inches across.

Height can range between low-to-the-ground fire bowls to taller models. If you’d like to be able to rest your feet on the lip of a fire pit, choose a model that’s either even with or slightly lower than standard seat height (typically 18 inches). Fire pit height compared to seat height also affects reflected warmth.

Pro tip: 

If you’d like the fire to warm you from your seat, aim for a lower fire pit. Keeping [a fire pit] a little lower, at 18 to 20 inches, provides more heat to the body.

Keep in mind how much space you’ll need for seating and circulation when determining the fire pit size. As a rule of thumb, budget on about 5 to 7 feet around all edges of a fire pit for chairs and movement through the area. Make sure you design around the fire pit, leaving room for big, comfy chairs and ample mobility.

If you’re planning to add built-in seating, keep the distance between the back wall of the seating area and the fire between 40 and 48 inches.

Permanent or Portable

Another consideration when buying a fire pit is whether you want the flexibility of a portable model or want to invest in a fire pit that will stay put as a permanent feature in your backyard. Lightweight portable fire pits can be a great option for renters; you can move them around and light them up in different areas of the backyard.

Material

Fire pits come in a variety of materials, including stone, metal, concrete or a mixture of multiple materials. Choose a material that suits your taste, coordinates with the design of your backyard and holds up well to stains and frequent use.

There are ups and downs from each material. Concrete is durable but can stain from soot. Powder-coated metal is durable but can get hot. Natural stone is great but can stain and occasionally will crack from heat if not built correctly.

If you are using a natural gas or propane-burning model, you may also be able to select the fire media, material in the flame area that covers the burner. Options range from decorative balls to lava rock and fire glass in many colors, sizes and shapes.

Cost

Fire pits have a wide range of costs. With a fire pit made using stacked stones in a ring or a basic model (typically made of metal and set up for wood burning only), you can keep the price under $100. Freestanding fire pits made from materials such as stone, concrete or powder-coated metal can run from $300 to $2,000 or more, depending on design. For custom and built-in models, budget $1,000 to $5,000 or more.

Fuel Type

Choose among three fuel options: wood, propane or natural gas. Wood-burning fire pits offer the classic crackling fire sound but are increasingly regulated due to environmental concerns about air-polluting smoke. 

Propane and natural gas offer the advantages of being smoke-free, easier to clean up and quicker to turn on and off. Both choices come with pros and cons: If you choose natural gas, prepare to potentially pay more for installation. You’ll also need to obtain a permit in order to extend a gas line. Propane saves on [the] cost of not having a gas line extended or permitted, but you’ll need to figure out where to hide the propane tank, ideally in a spot where it’s out of sight but still easy to refill.

Permitting

In general, you do not need a permit to install a standard-size backyard fire pit. If you choose a fire pit that runs on natural gas, you may need a permit to extend your gas line. Some areas may require a site inspection by local fire officials to check that your proposed location is fire-safe. Fire pits that are considered extra-large, over 4 feet in diameter, may require a permit or have other safety or installation requirements. Check your city building codes and local authorities before getting started.

Location

Building regulations will dictate where your fire pit can and cannot be in your yard, so check those first. Other things to consider when choosing a location for a fire pit include space constraints, fuel type and how you’d like to use the fire pit.

If a fire pit is part of a larger design-build project, one has to consider how it flows with the rest of the design. This includes site lines from the house and how the materials work together. 

Keep in mind that the main use of the fire pit will be in the cooler months. From what direction are the prevailing cold winds? It’s best to situate the fire pit in a space where it will be protected from these winds.

Safety and Other Considerations

Consider fire-safety measures when operating an outdoor fire pit and take measures to reduce risk. Make sure everyone in the house knows how to turn off or put out the fire feature, and never leave young children unattended around the flames.

Both location and choosing a fire-safe flooring material around the fire pit can make a big difference in increasing safety. Fire pits should be positioned at least 10 feet away from buildings and fences, on level ground and in an open area without overhanging trees. Fire-safe outdoor flooring materials to consider include: decomposed granite, crushed gravel, concrete, flagstone pavers or bare earth raked free of all flammable debris.

For wood-burning fire pits, it’s a good idea to have a spark arrester, a screen to catch sparks.

Whatever style or size of fire pit you choose, there’s a good chance it will become a favorite evening hangout spot that will inspire new traditions.

Whether you’re trying to break into the real estate market, downsizing or longing for more space for your growing family, there’s probably a tiny house for you. In addition to the trendy appeal to build a compact house on wheels and live an adventurous nomadic lifestyle, living large in a tiny house offers up a wealth of options–and their popularity is surging. 

Canadians Are Curious

The Canadian Real Estate Association has reported record sales active over the last few months, extra space and easy access to the outdoors has reached new heights. While for many this means larger homes in rural and suburban communities, for some, it means turning to tiny homes. 

A recent study shows that consumers are more interested in smaller properties than they were in 2019. Searches for ‘tiny homes’ have increased by 55% since January. For people on a budget looking to stretch their home buying dollar, putting up a custom-built tiny home on a small parcel of land–especially in a rural area like the Sunshine Coast.

That said, despite their small size, tiny homes are faced with some big hurdles regarding where they’re located and how they’re built. It’s important to research your local zoning laws and building requirements before you start building. 

Be sure to consider: 

•limitations to square footages in a rural community versus an urban neighbourhood; 

•the pros and cons of a mobile home built on wheels versus those of a stationary structure with a foundation; and

•facility requirements based on location and type of tiny home (such as service connections for water and electric).  

Tiny houses still occupy a grey zone between being a recreational vehicle (RV) and a traditional detached home—if you’re unclear about the regulations, contact your municipality to learn more or you can contact me. 

A Multi-Functional Space 

Working from home, online schooling and the return home of college students are also sparking the surge in tiny house research. After all, adding a pre-fab tiny home into your yard can add valuable and affordable square footage for an office, guest room, home gym or yoga studio, a pool house and many other uses.

At a fraction of that cost, you can do a lot with the added space a tiny home provides. Embrace your inner minimalist and find creative ways to maximize the room inside your humble abode: use the walls efficiently to create a clutter-free kitchen by hanging as many items as you can; add narrow shelving to any wall that isn’t serving a practical purpose; consider flexible furniture such as Murphy wall beds and foldable tables and benches; utilize sliding walls to avoid the inconvenience of permanent partitions; and save space with loft beds and add storage beneath the stairs. 

The perfect layout for your tiny home is a seamless blend of function and fashion, with the only limit being your imagination.

An Affordable Choice

Tiny homes can also be a cost-effective, simple solution. You can order a prefabricated unit–such as a recycled shipping container or another type of modular mini-home–and have it installed right onto your land. 

It’s also way easier, and cheaper than building an extension onto your house–a storage container only costs about $16,000. They’re built off-site and then delivered and hooked up. So, there’s less interruption into your daily life, because it’s not interfering with the actual interior of your house, which is a major advantage.

A Potential Rental Unit

Tiny homes can also bring in much-needed extra income. In areas that allow a separate structure on your property that’s plumbed and wired to code can become a rental unit. It could be rented out to family, to friends, or as a short-term or long-term rental. 

Thinking Outside The Box

Across North America, people are looking at small structures and being creative, of course, tiny homes aren’t ideal as full-time dwellings for large families with three or more children–unless you put a few of them together–but for singles, couples, smaller families and empty-nesters, there are limitless possibilities for expanding your space, helping boost your property’s resale value, or earning a side income. 

Whether you’re in a rush to get a lunch made or dinner on the table, an overstuffed fridge can really slow you down. A well-organized fridge, on the other hand, can help food stay fresh longer, reduce waste and make meal prep easier. Here are some simple strategies to get your fridge in order.

Give Your Fridge a Fresh Start

Before you go on your next trip to the store, take the time to give your fridge a thorough cleaning out. Check all those condiment bottles, the bottom of the crisper drawer and the back of the fridge, and pull out anything that is no longer fresh. Once you’ve done this, wiped down the shelves, drawers and door, it’s time to get organized.

Use Bins and Trays to Keep Your Fridge Cleaner

Removable, washable plastic trays and bins make it easy to clean up when a container springs a leak — just remove the whole tray and toss it in the sink or dishwasher. Bins are great for corralling groups of items that you would like to store together.

Make it Easier to Keep Track of Leftovers

Keep a roll of masking tape and a felt-tip marker near the fridge for marking leftovers with the date, and you can tell at a glance whether something needs to be used up soon or tossed.

Organize by Temperature to Keep Food Fresh Longer

The door and top shelf are the warmest parts of the fridge. The middle shelves maintain the most consistent temperature, and the bottom back stays the coldest. The drawers usually give you some additional control for humidity, which can affect how long fruits and vegetables stay fresh.

What to Keep Where

◦  Upper shelves: Leftovers, snack foods and drinks

◦  Middle shelves: Eggs, dairy and deli meats

◦  Bottom shelf: Raw meat and fish

◦  Higher humidity drawer: Fresh vegetables

◦  Lower humidity drawer: Fresh fruit

◦  Door: Butter, soft cheeses, condiments, pasteurized juice and fresh herbs

How to Prep Produce

Washing produce when you get home from the market can be a great time-saver when it comes to making dinner on busy weeknights. However, since water can make fresh produce go bad more quickly, be sure to thoroughly dry all fruit and vegetables before putting them in the fridge.

◦  Whole, washed peppers, carrots and celery can be returned to the drawer after being thoroughly dried.

◦  Freshly washed lettuce should be dried as much as possible in a salad spinner and then gently wrapped in paper towels inside a large zip-top plastic bag or food storage container.

◦  If you plan to chop veggies or fruit in advance, store the cut pieces in airtight food storage containers and plan to use them within a few days.

How to Store Fresh Herbs

Ideally, we would all have pots of fresh herbs within arm’s reach of our kitchen. If you do have an herb garden, aim to snip only as much as you need at one time. If you don’t grow your own herbs, try these methods for keeping those bundles of store-bought herbs fresh for as long as possible.

◦  Fresh basil and cilantro can be treated like a bouquet of fresh flowers: Snip the ends, place in a glass of water and store on your counter. This works well with most other soft, long-stemmed herbs as well (such as parsley).

◦  Smaller bundles of herbs can be gently tucked inside a plastic bag, along with a layer of dry paper towels. Keep the whole bundle in the fridge door, where it’s warmest.

What Not to Store in the Fridge

If your fridge is overstuffed, it could be that you’ve been storing some items that would be better off on the counter or in a cool, dark pantry.

◦  Bananas, avocados and any fruit that still needs ripening should be left on the counter.

◦  Tomatoes, melon and delicate, farm-fresh berries taste best when left at room temperature and eaten within a day or two of bringing them home. But if you need them to last longer, stash them in the fridge.

◦  Keep oils, coffee, bread, potatoes, onions and whole heads of garlic in a cool, dark place.

Make Mini Clear-Outs Part of Your Weekly Routine

While planning what to have for dinner in the week ahead, it’s natural to check for ingredients in the fridge. Use this time to straighten up the shelves and do a quick clearing out of old leftovers and items that are past their prime.

Know the right solutions and when to use them to prevent stains from pets, soda, chocolate, blood and more

If you’ve ever had a carpet freshly cleaned or rolled out a new area rug only to watch in horror as it became a stain magnet for everything from pet accidents to spilled wine and dirty shoes, you know the feeling: part panic, part action hero. Here’s how you can be a stain-fighting superhero.

Scene Of The Grime

Act Fast

When a stain happens, act quickly. Since most carpets today are made to be stain-resistant, many accidents can be remedied if you get to them in time. The longer the delay, the higher the chance of something becoming permanent.

Blot, Don’t Scrub

Using a white cloth or ink-free paper towels, to avoid the danger of additional dyes bleeding into the carpet, blot the stain. Avoid using a scrubbing motion, which can cause the spot to spread or work the problem deeper into the carpet fibers. Keep blotting until the area is completely dry.

Scrape

If semisolids are part of the problem, scrape them off the floor carefully with a rounded spoon. Vacuum the solids until they’re completely removed.

Spot On

Before treating a rug stain with a spot-removal product, test it out on an inconspicuous area first. This is an important step, because some cleaning solutions can cause damage. Apply several drops to the testing area and hold a white cloth on the wet area for 10 seconds. Next, check the carpet and the cloth for color transfer or visible damage to the rug. If you notice color coming off onto the cloth or discoloration on the rug, test another product.

Once you have identified a safe cleaning solution, apply a small amount to the stain and letting it sit for about 10 minutes. Next, working from the outside edges of the stain inward, gently blot the spot. Repeat as needed.

In many cases, patience is the most important, and it may be necessary to repeat the same step several times.

After the stain has been completely removed, it’s time to rinse the treated area thoroughly with lukewarm tap water and blot dry, again with the blotting, until all the cleaning solution has been removed. Some products will cause staining and spotting of their own if they are not rinsed completely.

To dry, stack a half-inch layer of plain paper towels on the spot and weigh it down with a flat, heavy object or stand on it. Continue the process, changing paper towels as needed, until the excess water has been absorbed and the carpet is dry.

If you feel the need for speed, use a dry, absorbent cleaning compound to accelerate the drying time.

Dirty Tricks

Knowlege is power. Knowing what kind of stain you are dealing with will determine the best course of action. Here’s how to attack some of the most common rug and carpet stains.

Coffee, Tea, Cola

One of the most recommended methods for cleaning a variety of stains begins with a combination of ¼ teaspoon of liquid dishwashing detergent with 1 cup of lukewarm water. According to the experts, although you may be tempted to add more dish soap, don’t do it. The less soapy residue you have to rinse out at the end, the better.

To create the solution, use a mild dish soap, never a laundry detergent or an automatic dishwashing detergent, since those often contain optical brighteners or bleaching agents, which can harm carpet dyes and fibers.

If the stain is stubborn, follow the dish soap solution with a mixture of 1 cup of white vinegar per 2 cups of water. Since white vinegar is a 5 percent acetic acid solution, it acts as a solvent that will work on both the stain and the dish soap residue.

Finally, when it’s time to rinse the area, use lukewarm tap water in a spray bottle.This precaution is aimed at avoiding oversaturating the carpet and harming the layers beneath. Blot with paper towels and pat dry after each rinse. Several rinses may be necessary to thoroughly eliminate the residue.

Pet Potty Spots

It’s not just the carpet stain but the lingering odor of pet accidents that concerns most homeowners. After the mess has been cleaned up, treat the stain with a product dedicated to pet stains or use the DIY dish soap solution. Blot until almost dry.

The Humane Society suggests that after you remove the stain, use a high-quality pet odor neutralizer, which can be found at most pet supply stores. It cautions against using cleaning agents with strong odors, such as ammonia or vinegar, which it says may encourage your pet to reinforce the scent of urine in that area.

One DIY method for neutralizing the scent: Mix one-half cup of 3% hydrogen peroxide with 1 teaspoon of a mild liquid dish soap, and put it in a spray bottle. Then sprinkle one to two handfuls baking soda, depending on the size of the stain, over the area and spray with the soapy solution. Gently massage the dissolving baking soda into the carpet and allow the spot to dry completely. Finish by vacuuming.

As with all stains, test the process on carpet in an out-of-the-way spot first.

Blood

If blood gets on your carpet, I’m guessing the first thing that comes to mind isn’t how you’re going to clean the rug. Once the emergency has passed, however, it’s time to address the mess — and quickly.

If the blood has dried, gently loosen it with a wire brush to remove surface debris. Then use the dish soap solution with cold water to clean and blot.

It’s important to note that bloodstains should be treated with cold water, not hot, because heat may cause the stain to set permanently.

If repeated cleaning and blotting with the dish soap solution doesn’t do the trick: Mix one-half cup of water with 1 tablespoon of ammonia. Using a cloth or sponge, apply the ammonia solution on the blood stain. Blot until the liquid is fully absorbed. Finally, apply a sponge dipped in cold water to the stain and blot until dry.

Chocolate

To remove chocolate stains: First scrape off as much of the dried chocolate as you can. Next vacuum the stained area to remove any remaining flakes.

Once the area has been cleaned, cover the spot with paper towels and set an iron to the lowest nonsteam setting. When the iron is warm, move it slowly over the paper towels. The chocolate should melt and stick to the paper towels. Keep the temperature steady, and as the paper towels absorb the chocolate, replace them with clean ones. Repeat until the stain has disappeared.

Another approach: use a solvent, a nonflammable spot solution or a dry-cleaning-type solvent on chocolate stains as the first line of defense. Never pour a solvent directly onto the carpet, since it might permeate the layers and damage the latex that binds the primary and secondary backings. The recommended solvents are Carbona, Energine, K2R and Goof-Off.

Wax

Attack candle drippings on the carpet first with a bag of ice. Place the ice over the spot and let it freeze for a few minutes. Next, remove the bag and scrape off the dried wax with the edge of a butter knife. Vacuum up any remaining pieces. If wax residue remains, place a brown paper bag or clean cloth over the spot and, using a warm iron on a low nonsteam setting, move gently over the bag or cloth. The heat will cause the residue to be absorbed into the bag or cloth. Repeat with a fresh bag or cloth until the residue is gone.

If a colored candle leaves a stain, pour a small amount of rubbing alcohol onto a clean white cloth and gently dab at the stain. Blot the carpet until it is dry.

Ink Markers

Everyone loves a good art project, just not on the carpet. There are several options for taking care of the stain.

Dab the ink stain with either rubbing alcohol or a cheap lacquer hairspray. Use a white towel to blot the spot — the pros say you should see the color transferring from the carpet to the cloth. Once the area is stain-free, dab the area to rinse away residue with a damp towel. If color remains on the carpet, repeat the process using more hairspray. The bad news: Although you may be able to lighten or reduce the stain in some cases, permanent markers are in fact permanent. Still, it’s worth a try.

Tomato Sauce

To get a tomato sauce stain out, act quickly. Work from the outside of the stain toward the inside, and use a spoon or the edge of a knife to remove any excess sauce from the carpet. Next, pour a generous amount of club soda onto the affected area of the carpet and use a damp sponge to blot up the stain. Then, take a clean paper towel and press it onto the area to absorb moisture or residue.

Finally, treat the spot using the dish soap solution, then blot, rinse and dry.

Grease Stains

Blot up as much of the grease stain as possible, then apply something like cornmeal, which will act to absorb the grease. After a few minutes, use a brush with stiff bristles to brush away the stain and break it up. If the spot is still there, try a dry-cleaning solvent, such as Afta cleaning fluid, and applying it with a clean sponge according to the directions.

Next, create a dry spotter, made by combining 8 parts liquid dry-cleaning solvent and 1 part coconut oil. Mineral oil works too, but not as effectively. Apply the mixture to the stain. Blot with a dry, absorbent towel or pad and repeat as needed.

As with all spot-cleaning remedies, be sure to test on an out-of-the-way piece of carpet first.

Professional Help

Sometimes, in spite of our best efforts, stubborn stains or spots on vintage or delicate rugs may require the attention of a carpet-cleaning professional.

With Canadians spending more time at home, opportunities to improve our living spaces continue to present themselves. You may have spent time pampering your pets, setting a new tone in the bathroom, or even performing some long-overdue home maintenance. If you’ve been considering uncharted home improvement territory, then it could be time to finish your basement. Let’s look at some ways to help you plan for this project.

Is It Worthwhile?

Undoubtedly this is one of the biggest projects you can undertake in your home, and it carries some risks as well as a hefty price tag. On the flipside, you’ll not only increase the livable space in your home, your property value could see a substantial boost. Whether you hire a pro to complete the work or execute this epic DIY yourself, the added value alone makes this a worthy endeavour if done correctly.

Besides general considerations for this project, you’ll need to assess costs. Consider a professionally finished basement will cost between $35 to $55 per square foot. Of course, this cost would be reduced for a DIY, but it’s a good baseline for budgeting. 

Important: If you’re considering converting to a basement suite consulting your municipality and a qualified professional are both key in planning for a  safe and legal living space for family or tenants.

Common Pitfalls To Avoid

Working Without a Permit: 

This is one of the most common mistakes when it comes to any type of renovation, causing potential financial and legal troubles down the road—especially when selling your home.

Ignoring Moisture: 

Before proceeding it’s important to confirm if conditions are suitable for finishing. Basement humidity levels must be maintained at 55% or less. Anything above 60% presents a mould risk. 

Tip: Taping two-foot squares of plastic sheeting strategically on the walls and floor for two-week periods is an excellent way to test for moisture penetration.

Improper Flooring: 

Another major pitfalls for finished basements is when carpet or organic flooring are laid on concrete. This can create conditions for condensation to collect, so it’s important to employ proper subflooring materials, or if possible, use inorganic flooring such as ceramic tiles.

No Backup Sump Pump: 

If your basement requires a sump pit and pump to address drainage during spring or sustained rain, it’s important to maintain a working backup pump for emergencies. 

Tip: During dry periods, practice swapping out your pumps to avoid any panic when there’s a pump failure. 

Poor Drainage: 

One of the most important considerations takes place outside your home. Ensure your gutters direct water at least 10 feet away from the home, and that the surrounding soil slopes away from the structure. 

Inadequate Ceiling Clearance: 

While most homeowners are not likely to attempt finishing a crawl space, it’s important to meet minimum code requirements for ceiling clearance. Clearance height may vary from city to city, but generally speaking you must keep a minimum height (below beams and ducts) of 6’11” for at least 75% of your usable floorspace.

Consult Professionals

This can’t be stressed enough. Even if you plan to do the finishing work yourself, it’s best to consult a professional for this type of project. A building engineer or architect can help you develop a plan to avoid missing key details, while also helping to assure building permit approval.

All electrical, plumbing, or support structure work should be performed by licensed professionals to avoid costly, dangerous mistakes.

Materials

Once you have a plan, it’s time to purchase the materials you’ll need to accomplish this project. Assuming any drainage or moisture seal issues have already been addressed, here are the main materials to plan for: 

•Treated lumber for studs (treated lumber is less susceptible to warping and rot)

•Metal or wood furring strips to create offsets along your walls (a must for uneven walls)

•Insulation (a solid foam insulation is recommended if it will contact the walls directly)

•Flooring materials (subflooring, carpet, laminate or tile)

•Drywall

•Paint

•Concrete sealer

•Hammer drill with masonry bits, masonry screws or slip anchor sleeves

•Plumbing (if you plan to install a bathroom or make changes to your laundry area)

•Sump pumps (every sump pit should have a primary and a backup pump)

Understandably, there’s a lot to consider, learn, and think about when preparing to finish your basement. Taking the time to carefully plan out your project while being mindful of potential pitfalls will go a long way towards creating a beautiful space you can not only be proud of, but will provide years of enjoyment for your family, and those of future owners.